GT2413NXFW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Replacing the door seal only involved unscrewing about 50 screws, attaching the new seal, & screwing all 50 screws back in. I'm glad I have a good electric screwdriver. The hard, if not impossible part, is trying to get the door to seal properly again. At first the door wouldn't close all the way, so after 2 hours of tinkering, it will close now, but the top left corner of the magnetic gasket will not seal no matter what.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

Removed the one and only screw inserted vertically up to hold the control console to the top of the fresh food compartment. Disconnected the electrical connectors ( two ) and laid console on work bench. Studied the temperature control installation first, then removed wire connections. Installed the new control same as old one, and reinstalled the console in the fresh food compartment of the refrigerator. Service from Part Select was excellent ! Great diagrams, pictures, etc. Great help to locating part ! Ordered part, and bam, here it was in few days ! Great customer support ! Five stars !

First I unplugged the refrigerator, then next I removed the (4) screws holding in the inside back panel section of the freezer covering the cooling coils, the fan motor is attached to the removable panel.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

I took off the ice maker, disconected the wiring, took out the back of the freezer and took out the fan motor. Harder than I thought because of all the wiring back there, light, fan assembly etc. After that it was easy, took out the old motor & installed the new one. Runs much quieter now, and the fridge & freezer are much colder.
I did this for less than the price of a service call by a repair shop.

The repair goes much easier if the door is removed. The door is bulky and that's the difficult part. Once its on the table, unscrew to get old one off, put new one in place and re screw. (there are many screws) Then bulky door needs to be placed back onto the refrigerator. Again difficult positioning, weight, bulky. The door comes off and goes on very easily (2 mins to get off, 10 to put back on). Just 3 lower screws. This job could have taken less than an hour if I had started with a removed door.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

slid new end caps onto bar and snaped back in to door. It took less than 1 minute.

The first order of business was to find a supplier for the gasket and to make sure that the right one was ordered. This was done with out a hitch @ Part Select and at a cost less than the retail stores. The right Gasket was ordered thru Parts Select

Only difficulty was to start the install of the replacment .
Need to start at the hinged corner of the door Top & Bottom for a good fit and less hassel.

Thank you Part Select for the service.

Alan E. Bischof
Houston Texas

My frig was cycling between upper 30's to 60 degrees, the freezer would make ice one day then be melting the next. I started by replacing the CONDENSER FAN MOTOR, relatively easy, unplug the motor, ratchet off the three supporting screws, splice the wires together, attach the ground wire and reinstall. That didn't seem to fix my problem.

I then ordered the Defrost Thermostat and Defrost Timer, based on past advice these were frequently replaced parts. Both installs were easy, the DEFROST TIMER was installed first, one screw holds the housing in the fridge, just unplug and unclip and install the new one. Very easy. This didn't seem to correct the problem overnight. I then installed the DEFROST THERMOSTAT, which was a couple of screws in the back of the freezer and uncip and install the new one. Very easy. This seemed to help the freezer maintain temperature, but the frig was still cycling up and down in temp on a daily basis and I had the temp knob all the way to 7 when it would normally work at 4.

I ordered the TEMPERATURE CONTROL ASSEMBLY. Easy to install, in the same housing as the Defrost timer, unhook some wires, reinstall and run the coiled part toward the back of the housing. This fixed the problem and has maintained my temp in the mid to lower 40's at the setting of 4.