GFS165/MN10 Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the GFS165/MN10
46 - 60 of 75

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not cooling
  • Ted from Crestline, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
R/R part, 3 screws reconnect 3 wires. easy.
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Loud noise from freezer when running
  • Joseph from Cottsge Grove, WI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the electric plug! Removed the freezer shelf and the rear shelf supports by pulling straight up. Swung rear panel out of the way after taking out the two phillips head screws at the top. Removed the plastic deflector grill to which the motor is attached with a nut driver. Removed motor from grill and disconnected wire prongs (pul l off). Attach new motor. Only issue - the ground prong has been moved to the front of the motor so the wire just reaches and has to be gently bent back so the fan blade clears it. Reattach deflector grill. Push on fan blade, but not too far to hit wire. Reassemble the rest in reverse order.
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Light bulb failure
  • Grant from Alexandria, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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Dryer would not heat. No flame or gas
  • Diane from Huntington Beach, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at to p. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.
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Noisy fan
  • Harry from Cincinnati, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the har ness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!
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Repalce evaporator fan
  • William from Ledyard, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The evaporator fan is located in the freezer behind the back wall. If you have the ice maker remove it first then remove the screws on the top of the panel. You will notice the side brackets for the top shelf will make it hard to remve the panal but by slitly binding the center the panal came right out. The fan is held in a bracke tha co mes right out. The wire unplu right from the fan so do not try to unplg the seal plug to the left side. Swap the fan with the new one useing the new rubber monts re-connect the wires and reasymble. Put the bottom of the back panal in first then work each side in past the shelf bracket binding the center slightly.
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no problems at at all
  • Eliseo from Pleasanton, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
removed rear wall panel took off old fan motor disconnected motor. Installed new grommets re-installed motor inserted new fan. Didn't have to trim fan re-connected wires and rear panel and reconnected power. no problems...
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rReally Noisy Fan
  • Robert from Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unplug Refrigerator 2. Remove inside back freezer panel. (4 Screws) 3. Remove Duct Cover (3 Screws). 4. Cut electrical connections to fan. 5. Remove Old Fan motor (2 hex screws. 6. Install ground wire (was not one there previously). 7. Put slide-on electrical connectors on remaining 2 motor wires. (Were not any on original unit.) 8. R eplace Fan Motor (Don't forget the rubber vibration pads) 9. Reconnect electrical wires. 10. Press on plastic fan blade. 11. Plug in refrigerator to test install. It works. 12 Unplug refrigerator and replace ducting and back panel to freezer. Plug it back in. Voila, Quiet again.
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No heat just tumble
  • Mario from SAN DIEGO, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.
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Dryer would not heat!
  • Diane from Beaverton, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and n ow it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.
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Clothes were not getting dry enought
  • Michael from Royal Palm Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"
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Dryer not staying hot
  • Lee from St. Louis, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat
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Our dryer would not ignite, so I figured it was the radiant flame sensor. Well, I out that in and still nothing. I found out that the Tube Burner was also burned off on the flame end, by the igniter. I also ordered that part. installed it, and it works beautifully.
  • Rodney from Zimmerman, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of th e burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.
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Dryer will not get hot
  • Robert from Ambler, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.
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Would not heat clothes dry
  • rick from Burton, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and wou ld recommend it to a friend.
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All Instructions for the GFS165/MN10
46 - 60 of 75