GFMS350GL0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Followed the Part Select video instructions which made the repair really easy!! Thanks for a job well done! ALSO.. the drum wobble was not caused by worn slides and felt. There are three screws holding the drum axle flange. Two of them fell out leaving the drum to flop about as it rotated. So we scavenged some screws from elsewhere on the dryer and problem solved. Once again.. thanks to Part Select for great instructional videos and great customer service ordering parts.

First up, remove the two screws that hold the top cover on - you can see them when you open the front door. Once those are out, close the front door and pull off the top cover. Remove two more screws (one on each side) that hold the front panel in place, then undo the clips and move the front off to the side - you don't need to unplug the harness for the door, it's long enough to move out of the way. I had to remove the drum next - it's held in place by 3 Torx head screws on the rear wall of the drum. Once the screws are out, you can slide the drum forward and off the belt so you have enough room to replace the igniter. The ignitor is down below on the right side, held in place with one screw, under a gray ceramic piece that (I assume) directs the flame - that part is held in place with two screws. Once that is out, you can undo the 2-prong connector, and use a short Philips screwdriver to remove the igniter. Be careful installing the new one, as the ceramic tip is fragile. Reassembly wasn't too bad, but it really helped to have an extra pair of hands to start the screws that hold the drum in place on the rear bearing. Since everything was apart, I also replace the drum sliders - this particular dryer uses 4 of them, and it spins nice and quiet again!

Took unit practically apart to remove old parts and install new part. Unit is like new.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

Removing the top and then the front of the dryer went fairly easily after finding the screws. The drum came out with just a little coaxing, does not gets screwed in place. To me the trickiest maneuver was getting my hand under the drum to place the belt over motor pulley and around the tensioner pulley. You must look up an image of the belt routing. It took me forever to figure that out. If not for that, this in a half hr fix. Ps don't forget to unplug the dryer.

I went to replace all four of the drum slides but in the process of doing this, found out that the whole of the top support had been rubbed away! I therefore ordered a replacement top support and replaced it per the instructions in the PartSelect webpage and from the youtube demonstration and completed the repair. I had a little trouble with getting the top support installed, but by jiggling it around and persistence I was able to complete the repair. The help I received on the webpage and video were invaluable! Thank you to PartSelect and to the other users for all your help!!

My son ordered the part, but gave up installing it. We called in a professional appliance repairman because the dryer had to be partially dismantled to remove the drum and a belt so three sets of holes could be aligned to secure the replacement diffuser. My daughter had to lend a hand to hold one piece in place while the repairman threaded the screws because the drum was too deep for him to be able to reach both front and back pieces. Definitely not a one-person job for this particular model.

1. turn off gas.2. disconnect electric.3.Remove 3/8 gas line from rear of burner. 4.disconnect two electric connectors from gas valve assembly. 5.disconnect electric line from igniter. 6.remove two mounting sheet metal screws from front of gas valve assembly(5/16 socket). There also may be a screw holding assembly to the bottom plate.7. remove entire assembly from dryer by pulling out to the front. 8.remove igniter assembly and replace on new burner. 9. two sheet metal screws 1/4 inch hold burner assembly to gas valve assembly.10.Install in reverse order . it may take a few seconds for the gas to get down to the burner. don't forget to change over the air mix valve to the same place.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

Watch the video on how to replace the belt on PartSelct site belt installation page.

This is the 2nd time we had to replace the slides. Not a big deal. Removed the top & front of the dyer and replaced the new slides. It's also a good time to vacuum out the inside while you have it apart. Be advised.... Get your tools ready. You'll be receiving your parts quickly. Couldn't believe how fast they arrived!

Thanks to your great DYI video I completed the repair in less than 45 minutes very easy.

Great service. I got the part in 3 days and having the youtube video was fantastic. I also was able to find other videos also so doing these tasks yourself nowadays is much easier. I was a bit nervous but it turned out to be easy.

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.