GFG464LVS2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the GFG464LVS2
121 - 129 of 129

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Could not get self cleaning oven to engage
  • Charles from Fairfield Bay, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]
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oven not maintaining temperature
  • John from East Elmhurst, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Replaced bake igniter only as recommended by others, no need to buy the whole unit. The bottom screw is difficult to access, use a 1/4 inch socket set with 8 mm socket. Advice to remove bottom storage drawer to make sure wire is connected to the igniter. So far it works fine.
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oven wouldnt stay lit
  • jasper from pekin, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
all I did was replace the igniter and that fixed my problem simple to do.
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Gas range would not go into self cleaning mode. When pushing the self clean button, would get three beeps!
  • Lee from Saint James, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.
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oven temperature did not stay as set
  • Paul from Cornelius, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.
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Damaged Socket When Removing Bulb Base
  • Charles from Oceanside, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The secon d one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.
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I broke the glass by hitting it with the edge of a broom
  • Bernice from Phoenix, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Clean off all broken glass and wipe down the debree,figure what side the glass goes then unscewed the base then the sides then add gorrilla glue on the edges to help set the glass in place had some hold it the screw th center bottom in first then got the sides in place with the bottom rack then screw it all back in to place making sure the side and top were in place right that was it.
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Ignater would ignate the first time, but then after the oven went off the ignater would not re-ignate and the ove would rmain off
  • Jose from Woodbridge, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The first thing you need to do is remove the racks from your oven.

Then look around at the back of your oven for the screws that hold the bottom pan down.

Remove those screws and remove the pan. Some need to slide back and then come up others will just pull up.

Remove the heat shield that is over the burn er.

Remove the bottom drawer of your oven.

Now you should be able to see the igniter that sits on an angle by the burner tubes with a couple of wires coming out of it.

Removing the screws that hold the igniter is probably the most difficult part with some ovens. Sometimes it is easier to remove the whole bracket that holds the igniter and then remove and replace the igniter out of the oven.

The wires for the igniter will go to a Molex plug. Follow the wires and undo the plug. On many units it will be below the oven in the drawer opening at the top back. You will need to lay flat on the floor and reach back in to do this.

Once you have the old igniter out then you can carefully install the new one.

Check to make sure that you can feed the Molex plug and wires down through to the bottom before fastening the igniter.

Once the igniter is secured and the plug is connected, you can then replace the other parts in the reverse order that they came out.
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Often would not heat. Burners on syove were O.K.
  • Bruce from Michigan City, IN
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed door per instructions in manual. Removed racks and storage drawer per manual. Removed two phillips head screws holding bottom pan and removed pan. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter tube (#12) and withdrew tube from the cavity. Removed two phillips head screws holding igniter and bracket to the tube. Unplugged elcetr ical connection to igniter and installed new igniter in reverse order. Too bad the igniter wasn't the problem.
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All Instructions for the GFG464LVS2
121 - 129 of 129