FFEF3043LSK Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the FFEF3043LSK
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no problems
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Agusta, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
real easy with no problems, thank you
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Cracked inside glass
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • patti from Greer, SC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti
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left terminal broke off from the base of the block causing circuit breaker to trip and not able to be re-set
0 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from North Babylon, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.
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inner glass uncleanable
  • Krista from Newtown, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair
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No heat from bottom or top element,k stove top and clock all worked fine.
  • steven from Daleville, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Timer was bad. Removed the four screws on the rear panel, and then the four screws holding the timer in place. I let the old one dangle by the wires until the new one was in place, then just switched the wires one at a time. There is one set that has a plastic connector, and you need a small flat screwdriver to depress the locking tab on the top of the connector to release it. Be sure and order a new face plate as the old one will not come off without tearing. Re-install rear cover and your done.
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Burner would no turn off.
  • ALBERT from BENTONVILLE, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to i t.
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could not control the heat cooking
  • Robert from HOLTSVILLE, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.
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burner wouldn't heat up
  • Stephen from Columbia, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair m an wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.
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Large burner doesn't turn down or shut off.
  • James from Forestdale, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE
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Burner would stay on and the hi-temp safety limit switch is all that would shut it off.
  • Dana from Acton, ME
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.
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My fiancee was baking when she heard a pop and saw a spark from the clock. When I looked at it the clock and timer were dead and the oven wouldn't work but the top burners worked.
  • Joe from Bowling Green, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I read some other's repairs from this site with similiar symptoms. Take off the back takes a couple of minutes. Turn off power at the breaker of course the range is 220 volts. Remove the 4 screws holding the clock timer. Carefully remove the clock front as not to damage it. It has a flexible glue that holds it. You may need to take a knif e to get it started. Line it up and stick it on the new clock timer, there will be plenty of glue left to hold it. Remove wires one at a time and place them on the new board as you go until you have all leads changed to the new board. Put the new timer in place and insert the 4 screws that hold it.Turn it on and the clock should be flashing. Reset the clock and you should be ready to go! I turned on the oven and it worked! I saved myself a about $250 by doing it myself. $85 for a service call and whatever they would decided to mark up for the clock timer. 20 minutes start to finish. It really was an easy fix!
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oven wouldn't work
  • Steve from Hiram, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven ba ck in. Done.
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Burner stays on when switch is in the off position.
  • Kevin from Lithonia, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Confirm the problem and check electrical diagram to see if there was any other circuit in the syatem that could cause the burner to stay on , remove back cover and inspect switch contacts, found them burnt , look up parts for the model number and replace it.
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Large burner switch made popping and buzzing noises.
  • Glenda from Miles City, MT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.
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Large Burner On Glass Top Quit Working
  • JILL from VIRDEN, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did h ave to order another one of those.
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All Instructions for the FFEF3043LSK
121 - 135 of 208