FFEF3043LSK Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I watched the video on how to do it

With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repa ... Read more ir took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.

Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be su ... Read more re to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)

Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to ... Read more like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

The Clock/Timer had no juice coming thru for the stove to come on for cooking.So once I receive my parts to fix it, I had no problem getting the job done.

Used a nut driver to take off upper silver back off. Took one wire off at a time and rewired new timer. Used same nut driver to remove old timer,stuck on old cover on new timer and screwed it it. Rescrewed back on, plugged it in and it works great.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

First I unplug the stove and then started to take off the back panel off behind the stove. Then I took the relay panel off by taking the four screws, that holds the relay in place. Now it took me a few minutes to unplug the wires
from the relay panel. Let me tell you that these wires were
really hard to pull off the relay. After ... Read more a few minutes later
then I started to put the new relay panel back on. The wires were easy to put back on the new relay. Then I put the back panel back on and then plug the stove back in. After that the power was back on and the new panel fixed my issue.

I google parts for my oven and I found you all. I read a couple of your other stories and I see I wasn't the only one that ran into this problem before so I took there advice and the part was a my home in three day I pit it in and it is working now thanks

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to joi ... Read more n the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)