FFEF3043LSK Frigidaire Range - Instructions

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

Un plugged from elec. took off back, and removed burned out part, and put new one in place. and it worked.

Thanks!!

Ps:we saved over $250.00

unplugged appliance.removed back panel.removed old clock/timer by backing out 4 screws holding it in place.took of each wire one at a time as not to confuseplacement on new part. peeled front plate of old timer very carefully, placed on new part.put back in place.very easy, less than half hour.if I can do,anybody can

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Unscrewed upper back panel of stove. Connected wires from old part to new part one at a time. Then unscrewed old part from stove. After that I screwed the new part to the stove. Replaced upper back panel. Finished.

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

first i remove cover, then i unscrew defective part, remove wires. i then install new part & replace marked wires . I then replace cover, turn on oven and holla! my oven is working.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

Replaced switch by according to video with no issues, Terminals were nearly identical as the new switch.

The terminals on the new burner were not located in the same position as the terminals on the old burner. I had to reference the wiring diagram to locate the correct wire to terminal location. There was not enough slack in the wires to position the new burner in the same position as the old burner. I had to rotate the new burner so the wires would reach. This cause me to have to rotate the warming burner because rotating the new burner, the terminals interfered with the terminals on the warming burner. I also had to reposition some of the wires so they would not contact the burner and terminals.