ER8GHKXMS00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.

Watched the installation video and was able to make repair easily

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

TOOK IT OUT OF THE BOX, AND LAID IT IN THE GROVE THAT IT GOES IN.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

The glass shelf replacement simply fits into the plastic frame which holds it and completes the shelf unit above the crisper bins.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I unscrewed the fill tube screws from the back of the fridge, and pulled the tube out.

Then I put the new tube in, screwed the screws back in and reconnected the waterline.

Removed the two screws holding the funnel in place...removed the old one and replaced it witht he new tubing...screwed screws back in and the jov was complete. It actually took longer to get it out of the sack than it did to put it together

Simply removed the old and replaced with the new part.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.