DVM7195DK2BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

All Instructions for the DVM7195DK2BB
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When opening door, the microwave would turn on
23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Fridley, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN
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tray broke
24 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • martin from the villages, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replace tray
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Light bulbs wouldn't come out of socket
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Toni from Denton, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained th at you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.
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Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Katherine from WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove anoth er screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
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repair broken lens and replace light bulb.
20 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heidi from Astoria, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as th e model numbers tend to change over time.
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Changing the bulb that illuminates the cooktop
21 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LUCY from BALLWIN, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.
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Microwave would run but not heat.
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Devin from HERRIMAN, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It wasn’t the magnetron.
It wasn’t the diode.
It wasn’t just the fuse.
It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!
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After closing door the display panel must be tapped on to keep the unit operating.
25 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from San Jose, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustmen t, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.
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Broken glass turn table
15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marshall from Sacramento, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Open the box.. unwraped excessive bubble wrap.. placed in microwave.. Did'nt even break a sweat..
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Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from SARASOTA, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surpr ised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
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microwave stopped working
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from OWOSSO, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel
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Microwave would not go on
18 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Lincolnshire, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and s lid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.
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Light socket replacement
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lester from orlando, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.
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microwave would not start
13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JULIA from JACKSONVILLE, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one
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Broke light fixture socket
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norman from Benson, NC
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.
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All Instructions for the DVM7195DK2BB
16 - 30 of 189