DBVH520EJ4WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I replaced the drum bearing slides and also the main front drum bearing. First, disconnect the electric. Then I removed the two screws inside the door that attach the top cover, removed the top cover, removed two screws that attach the front cover, lift up the front cover and pivot it to the left leaving the wiring attached, removed the front bearing assembly by pulling it out at the top and then up, installed the new front bearing ring and snap it into place, installed the drum bearing slides, reinstalled the front cover, reinstalled the top cover, and tested the drum by turning it by hand first and then under power. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes....

Replace the front and rear bearings. When I have to do it again I will only order (3106), (313), 2x (316) green, 2x (316) white, and drive belt. Taking it apart and putting it back together was easy. Unplug the unit. Take out the 2 philips screws that hold on the top. Lift the top from the front to clear the locking tabs in the back and take it off. Take out the 2 5/16 screws that hold on the front. Tilt the front (door) forward and rest the drum on the dryer sides, you'll see it. Disconnect the wiring harness for the light and door switch, 2 wires. Lift the front off the bottom retaining clips and place aside. Have someone hold up the drum. Reach under and unhook the drive belt. Pull out the drum assembly. Take off the rear bearing, 3 screws. Clean out the heating element area in the back of the dryer while you have a chance. Replace the bearing assembly. I bought the entire bearing assembly but I could have gotten away with just the sleeve ( 3106), but I didn't know that at the time. Take off and replace the drive belt. Lock the tension arm for the drive belt into the compressed position shelf holder by the motor, push the arm down, you'll see it. Replace the drum and have someone hold it up while you rehook the drive belt and release the tension arm. Now, I would suggest replacing the entire front bearing. If the slides have been bad for a while, the plastic bearing (housing) is probably worn out and cracked. I had to order a front bearing assembly because the new slides wouldn't work with the worn out assembly, no big deal, it came quick. Unscrew the light bulb. Slowly pull the assembly away from the top of the front metal panel, slowly, and pay attention to where everything lines up. Replace the new front bearing and put the new slides on the little plastic tabs, be careful so you don't snap them off. Green on top, white on the sides. Replace the lightbulb. Set the front panel into place on the tabs at the bottom of the dryer. Rehook the door wires (2), and have someone hold up the drum while you slide the front bearing into the drum. Holding the front panel in place, turn the drum by hand and check for binding, things that don't sound or look right. Replace the 2 nuts to hold on the front. Plug it in, keep your hands back, turn it on, look, listen, everything fine. Open door, unplug, replace the top and the 2 screws that hold it on. Plug in, turn it on and check for any noise, you shouldn't hear any. If you do, you didn't do something right or maybe your drive pulleys are bad. A good dad and son job; especially getting on the ground and reaching under to deal with the drive belt. Watch out for sharp edges on the sheet metal and be slow and careful with the front plastic bearing so it doesn't snap. Your now good for 5 more years. A 2 on the difficulty scale, just take it slow and have an extra set of hands.

I order the parts needed to replace the slides, the felt ,and the bearing on a Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived on Tuesday even though I used regular shipping. I followed the instructions posted by another customer. It was extremely easy and only took me about fifteen minutes. My only problem was that I needed 2 each of the front slide and the rear slide, and I unknowingly only ordered 1 of each. I order the other 2 on Tuesday via regular shipping and they arrived on Wed. AMAZING!!!!

When we first heard the screeching i thought right away that it was the belt. we ordered a new one and after i replaced it the dryer was still just as loud. I wished i went here first. Right away i found others with the same problem, did the same repair which was just taking 2 screws out, sliding the top and front panel off(watch for the electric wire connected to the panel) and replace a couple of plastic slides. now it is better than ever.

Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job

Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.

Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide off of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.

Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.

You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.

You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.

The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.

I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.

looked at video of dryer disassemble, replaced 4 bearing slides, reassembled. Dryer is perfect now , no noise. thank you for your parts.

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

I used the PartSelect website to diagnose the problem (three of the four drum bearing slides were completely gone, and the top bearing was very worn), and then used the video instructions on the site to discover that I could most likely do these repairs myself, though I’m not especially handy. The repairs were actually quite easy — I removed the top cover, disconnected the control panel, and removed the front door assembly, then replaced the top bearing and the duct felt seal. I then inserted the new bearing slides into the top bearing, re-attached the front door assembly, re-attached the control panel and top cover, and was done! It works like new! It took me 2 days to receive the parts with normal shipping (ordered Wednesday, received Friday), and it took less than an hour to complete all the repairs, including cleaning the door assembly, vents, etc. Based on estimates I received from local repair services, I saved at least $300.00. Well worth an hour of my time! Great site, service, and instructions!

Had back in service within a hour of receiving parts

I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?

I asked my husband to repair it and he said call a repairman. I went online a read stories from others on how easy it was so I ordered the parts myself and did the repair. I strictly followed the video instructions. They were excellent! I also took the time to clean lint from the door and lint trap which i would not have done if a repairman had come to do the work. I now have the confidence to do the rear bearings if they go out!