DBVH520EJ4WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

I basically watch the video on how to get to the top bearing assy. and to replace the guides and it went pretty easy. The only thing was the drum had to be moved back into the frame because it was sticking to far out. I now have a new dryer and its very quite and does not eat the clothing any more. I received the part fast and I will use parts select for my other appliances.

I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.
I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first!
Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.
Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it.
I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.
Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.
Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel.
I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.
Put on the top panel and done!

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!

I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great

First remove top cabinet panel by removing two small screws under door recess; then swing up lid and remove from hinged area at the rear. Once top panel is removed, remove the front panel and door assembly by removing two attach screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Swing the front panel down and remove from two base hinge points. Slightly lift the front of the dryer drum and wedge some rolled up newspaper between drum and frame to provide access to get your hands through to the idler pulley and motor area. Remove the belt form the motor & idler pulley; then slide the drum out of the cabinet to gain access to the idler pulley. Remove nut securing idler pulley from bracket and remove and replace with new part. Reverse the process to complete the installation.

I had to remove all screws from the back of the dryer, control panel, and one side. Pulled top off. Took out two screws that held front door panel on. Disconnected 3 wires into door and completely removed door panel. Disconneted pink wire from heating element then slide belt off drum as I removed the drum. Pulled off the old completly worn out drum bearing sleeve and replaced it. Replaced drum slides as some were worn through. Had a little trouble getting belt back on when I reconnected everything but for 50 dollars in parts and shipping I have working dryer, so I would say it was well worth the effort.

took two screws off the front. They were behind the door. These screws held the top on. Lifted top off and took two screws from the frame holding the front door and panel on. Disconnected three wires and removed front panel. Laid dryer over on right side and removed four screws from bottom and back,two from control panel and removed left side.lifted drum out and removed belt. Removed nut cap and idler pulley wheel. Replaced same. removed three screws holding screen and rear drum bearing to drum. Replaced same. Removed electric heat coils from back and removed receiver for rear drum bearing. Replaced same. Put everything back in reverse order. Works better than new!!

The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

We removed two screws to remove the top and two screws to remove the front. The dryer drum slides were easy to replace and the felt fit into a track. It was so easy and now my dryer is quiet again, no more rubbing/squeaking. I can't believe that was all we had to do, and for $60.00!!! I'll be back for future parts if needed. Thanks.

Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!