CFSP5RKBBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

Very simple fix. Just remove the back cover, unscrew the water valve, unplug the water valve and disconnect the water line. Then reinstall the new one. Takes about 15 to 20 min and it worked like a champ

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

Replaced Double Outlet Water Valve then defrosted coiled plastic water tubing at bottom position inside refrigerator into pan of hot water for 10 minutes. Water still did not flow. Defrosted refrigerator and water dispenser immediately resumed operation. Suggestion -
defrost refrigerator first.

Unplugged unit. Removed back cover plate. Used 5/16 water line. Cut old broken line. Used water tube union and attached new line. Removed electrical contacts. Note very easy removeand replace the red and white hookups. Next remove water line at the old vale with1/2 wrench. Hook up water line to new valve. Icemaker line was not damaged so I removed from old valve and trimmed the end. Really installed line to valve. Plugged in fridge and turned water supply back on. Check for leaks. Had trouble locatingthe 5/16 water line but found bulk. PARTS SELECT had the guest connector and the replacement valve. I received the correct parts and saved me $$$$. Plus my wife happy right before the holidays! !!,

The trouble with DIYers is that they don't have very much experience with and the benefit of several repairs on the same appliance. So they must rely on their mechanical abilities and the youtube help of Steve. So they must resort to eliminating the variables as their diagnostic approach. In my case I was unable to find the exact description of my problem, so I began with what seemed like the most likely and the least expensive replacement. So after I had replaced the water valve, the micro switch and the main board I finally found the problem was the water filter by ordering and installing a water bypass valve which I did not have readily available at the start.

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

The only tricky part was removing the front panel. Releasing the latches required considerable force. The best tool I found was a "jack knife" type Allen wrench set, using the medium size wrench, which fit into the release hole and upward pressure did the trick. The rest of the job was very easy.

just watch video simple

Replacement valve fit perfectly but didn't fix the problem. More troubleshooting found blockage through the water filter assy although I don't use a filter and just have the the bypass plug installed...7 years like this. Used compressed air to blow out the line and got some crud out. Works now but can't turn water pressure up full or line hammers and stops flow. Left supply valve open slightly which supplies ice maker fine and dispenser ok. Must be something wrong with internal spring stopper in filter assy...keeps water from pouring out if filter or bypass not installed.

I replaced the solenoid assembly on the dispensing door and the dual inlet water valve. I found that the solenoid assembly was rusted and caused the door not to allow the ice to dispense properly. Also the water line was checked per the instructional video offered by this site I found trash in the line. I previously had issues with the water freezing in the in-door water dispenser which resulted in a heater repair kit being installed by a service tech it did not last. Everything worked great for a week and the water stopped dispensing from the door. The final fix was found on line as follows - Install a 8 inch length of weed-eater line (.95) into the dispensing tube. Let it extend out about 1" or less. When the water stops flowing just give the line an up and down pull and the small amount of ice in the line is removed thus allowing the water to dispense properly. The trouble shooting and helpful videos provided by this site are great. I received the parts quickly and they followed up with me after the job was completed. I have moved onto the washing machine and ordered parts for another home project. Thanks Randall

The best instructions were several YouTube videos for replacing icemakers on GE french door bottom freezer refrigerators, but none fully described the process. The following difficulties were encountered: (1) Instructions for removing the freezer door showed three screws on each side that needed to be removed; in fact, there was only one screw on each side. It was smaller than the three depicted screws and its location was not exactly as shown in the videos. (2) None of the instructions adequately described the process for removing the mounting plate from the nonfunctioning icemaker so it could be attached to the replacement unit. The key was to forcibly pry open the cover over a screw that then needed to be loosened with a screw driver. It seemed that I risked breaking the unit when I tried to slide the tab, but it eventually moved and revealed the screw that was holding the original mounting plate in place. (3) Replacing the freezer door required lining up some metal studs with slots in the undercarriage; you need to get down on the floor to examine how this fits back together. (It might help to take some photos before removing the freezer door.) (4) Replacing the upper drawer was perhaps the trickiest. My first effort resulted in having the rod with gear pinions on each end pop out because some of the tabs holding the gear pinions on each end broke. That meant that I had to order two replacement gear pinions (left and right are identical). Then, as with the freezer door, it was necessary fo slide metal studs on each side into a vertical slot leading to a horizontal slot in order to seat the upper drawer properly. So the whole process took a few weeks; actual work time was perhaps 3-4 hours. This could have been shortened significantly had I taken photos as I disassembled everything and if the procedure for moving the mounting plate had been clearer (or even existing). All in all, though, this is a doable DIY project.

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.

removed the control panel ,using a paper clip, removed five screws, disconected wire connector, and removed the solenoid. reversed procedure to reassemble. ordered the part one day and received it the next day. Thank you for the prompt response.