CBC980SN1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Had to pull out the refrigerator and put it in the dining room in order to pull out the stove to be able to get to the back of it. Had to take off the back of the stove to get to the wiring for the baking element, so at that point I replaced the broil element at the same time. Not a easy job at all.

I ordered part at 10am on Monday and part arrived at Noon on Tuesday 24 hours WHAT MORE can I say... It was all easy and now I have to cook again, so much for the stove is broken excuse.

UNPLUG the oven. Following what every else was doing, I removed the element first, then disconnected the contacts. The leads on the contacts are not overly long, so I found myself removing cover on rear of oven when reconnecting red and yellow wires. Required removing two more screws with nut driver. Should I have to replace another element, I would remove rear cover first, unplug wires from element, remove element. Reverse procedure with new element.
While waiting for new element, be careful when turning on stove top element. Don't turn on oven by mistake, and when you do it, turn it off as fast as you can.
If you use stove top while waiting for part, don't forget to UNPLUG the oven. Won't be but a day or two. Very happy customer.

ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.

less then ten minutes, used a electric screw driver and in a snap, finished, I always buy my parts on line at parts select my stove is old but in good condition except parts give out sometimes and I just order part and keep on cooking.

Removed bolts unplugged unit then plugged new unit in. Put bolts in and unit works great.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

Very easy to replace. So easy even a man can do it.

Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.