ADT521PGJWS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.

I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.

I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.

Unscrewed mounting bracket from Fram. Unplugged wires. Took adjustable wrench took water line connector off original valve. Place connector on new valve and reconnected all lines and mounted back on frame.

Since I have granite countertops, unscrewed 2 screws on each side of cabinet. Unscrewed the toe plate, unplugged the wire connector, and disconnected the cable
from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.

Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.

Replaced gasket with a new one before further problems occurred. Got to get it in but it was relatively easy to place and snap in just make sure it fits on the right place where gasket inside meets ridges on door so it will be on properly for proper fit.

1. Shut off circuit breaker power
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

Followed directions on YouTube

Once I got the dishwasher out of the cabinet, which required removing the top screws and then the lower face plate. I then removed the old pump by disconnecting the hoses, then removing the old pump by pulling it from the hanger wire. I then disconnected the wire harness. I then put the new pump in place in reverse order. The wire harness connections were different, and the new harness that came with the new pump I was not sure how it may have went with this unit. So I hard wired it by sniping out the wire connector on both sides and wire nutting the connections. Once done I put the dishwasher back in place and tested. Worked like a charm.

This was so easy! Our 4 year-old dishwasher began making a repetitive, clunking noise during wash cycle, and I deducted that it was the spray arms. I tried to rinse out old
spray arms, checked for clogs, and made sure they were installed correctly. The sound persisted, so I ordered replacement part (wash arm kit). I removed old spray arms and attached new ones. Problem solved and dishwasher is quiet again!

After replacing UI board, I replaced the mainboard. still did not solve the problem. The element tested good and I had removed the flood switch, rinsed and blew it out so it rattled but the damage was done. Replacing it made the dishwasher heat water and heated during dry cycle. Removed fine filter, removed course filter, removed two screws with nut driver, removed flood sensor and then reversed. A year or so ago, the dishwasher flooded for no apparent reason, wondering if that was the beginning end of the switch!

Quite simple. Only disassembly/reassembly was the spray mechanism attached to the bottom of the Upper Rack. Snaps off old and on to new rack with no tools. On this dishwasher model, there is no hose assembly running to water port, but the spray assembly is instead a integrated tube with a male port that "plugs" into a female port on back of unit. Definitely get 2 end caps.
Only difference from original, is the design of the bottom rack. To fit such that the door closes, the silverware rack is at the back of the unit versus the front. Somewhat inconvenient. Can put silverware rack in front, but then less efficient for dishes.