7MMHW7000BG0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

followed video instruction that came with part. Previously watched youtube video (there are several, the low production videos are well worth viewing over the professional types). It was a breeze, other than the videos saying one person could do all four. When you get to the last rod, it is more difficult to lift the tub to insert the final rod in the round holder. I asked my wife for assistance.

Very simple repair with the kit. Old rods came out easily using vise grips locked on to rods about 10-12 inches down and pulling up. Had doubts if they were bad since everything looked good but drum bounced back several times when I shoved it down to test it earlier. New rods went in just as easy and replaced in less than 30 min. Hardest part was that I had very cramped laundry room so had to move and disconnect hoses etc. to move into larger space for repair and then move back to reconnect. Parts came quickly within about 3 days and now purrs like a kitten!

Exactly like the video from the website

Replaced the suspension rods

Followed video on your web site, and used that for ways to fix, good directions. If I was more organized it prob would of taken about an hour or less

The video posted on this site will walk you right through the repair. Great service. Thanks!

1 Pull the machine away from the wall.
2 Unplug the machine.
3 Remove three screws in the back on the machine that secure the top
4 Remove the top
5 Remove the water lines that are connected to dispenser
6 Remove the Detergent tray
7 Remove one 1/4-inch screw that secures dispenser to the washer brace
8 Remove two torques tip screws from the front of the dispenser
9 Remove the outer ring securing the washer seal
10 Disconnect the rub hose connected at the front of the dispenser at the bottom
11 Reinstall the New Dispenser in reverse order
12 Test for leaks

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

This washer would not go into spin cycle without going out of balance no matter how we arranged the contents in the drum. We were looking to buy a front loader when I happened open this company with video instructions and positive comments from other people with the same issue. For the cost it was worth a try. Following the video and in less than one hour the washer was back in service. It now operates like the day we installed it new. Highly recommend this fix which should save you hundreds on a new washer.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.