79043 - Instructions

removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.

Plug in the replacement ice maker to the socket in the frig, fit the back of the new ice maker into the slot to the rear, attach with 2 screws saved from removing old ice maker. Simple.

Pulled stove out and unplugged it.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control p ... Read more anel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minut ... Read more es.

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back ... Read more into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it p ... Read more opped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. ... Read more We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

With no install instructions (NOT good for diy-ers), looked through reviews and watched video for help. Replacement part - not same as original. Had to use magnifying glass to id the terminals / take a picture before disassembly. reassembled - found out terminals are different & black wire is too short. Took off element - rotated the clip ... Read more s one number counter clockwise, reassembled - removed black wire from harness for extra reach. Hooked up, lowered top for test. power on - everything OK. Power off - complete assembly. Power on - test. Seems to be good. When I called customer service for assistance because there was no instruction, they told me I should contact a local appliance repair person. (big joke).

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair compa ... Read more ny wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.