7730 - Instructions

Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".

I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.

I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!

I removed the broken rail & installed the new rail with a screw driver. The screws were located in somewhat difficult position. The rail works OK but has a tendency to stick & the tray holder sometimes slips out of the new rail.

There is a part called a "cam" on my 23cuft french door refrigerator. It is at the top of both doors and works to keep the closed door from popping open when slamming shut the opposite door. Twice in 2 years this cam has broken off of the long plastic strip which is the gasket holder. Both times on the right door. The repair is easy, but you have to be careful not to break the plastic pieces. First, you have to remove the trim piece covering the gasket strip (233D in the diagram). It pulls out only one way -- toward the SIDE of the door (rather than inwards towards the fridge). Next, you have to remove the entire gasket around the door; it pulls out very easily. Third, there are 2 plastic hinges which snap into the door frame; to remove it use a screwdriver and gently pry it to the side of the door (rather than towards the center of the fridge or away from it). Frankly, that's the hardest part - taking it all apart without breaking the trim piece. When I first had it repaired under warranty, the repairman brought an extra trim piece (233D) in case he broke it when he removed it. But it simply snaps in place so you should be okay if you are careful when prying it out.

Caution removing plastic molding with putty knife or flat bar . Roll the gasket toward the inside of frig ,push old holder up carefully out of gasket. Half way out tilt holder back to avoid ceiling . Save old holder for template ,remove screw from bottom,push out rod ,caution clip is spring loaded, install in new holder in reverse,slide back into gasket(carefully)!!replace molding

I could not figure out from the online manual just what to do or what part to order as the pictures of parts were so small. I had to call the company and explain what happened. You sent the gasket holder that I needed. I had to call my handy man to install. It did not take him toof long to figure out what to do.

After reviewing the parts picture of the left door I was able to disasemble the door gasket to replace the gasket holder which also mounts the brocken cam. No specail tools needed.

After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.

I noticed that one of the burner blocks was completely burned and the others were corroded. I ordered blocks for all four burners. Installation was easy except for one block. The screw holding the bracket to the range top was completely corroded in place. I used a correct size easy-out, which is a left hand tap and drill, to remove the screw. That took about five minutes, including tracking the easy-out down in one of my many toolboxes. The entire replacement of four blocks took about one and a half hours. Stove top cooks like new on all burners! The part kit had all the right parts and they fit like a glove!

I removed the old one and put in the new one. Works great!!!!!!!!!!!!

new drip bowl fit perfectly and was a snap to install.

It was a very easy fix. I followed the instructions that came with the kit and cut the original cable. Everything you need is in the kit; very few parts. Piece of cake and saved a lot of money an appliance repair person would have charged. This burner works better than the rest. I'm seriously considering replacing the other three blocks.

The four kits arrived, use of a pliers and shink wrap and side cutters...strip wires, twist wires connect wire ties, shrink wrap...little fire, plug the elements...done...four in about ten minutes...Instructions in each package...no problem...very easy...saved twice the money or more...Thanks for the parts...recommend this site purchase...parts arrived very timely...J. Iriwn

I lifted the stove top and cut the two wire connected to the block. Attached the new wire connectors, new block and checked to make sure it was working. The part that took the longest was getting the screw out of the mounting brracked(it was corroded on). I sprayed some WD40 and waited 5 minuts, it came loose. Then i mounted the new bracket and installed the burner. double checked everything and lowered the top. Done