7730 - Overview

Models starting with 7730

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
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(47)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch – Part Number: WPW10196405
$17.96
In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
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★★★★★
(23)
Part #WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookware on the burner. The diameter of the drip bowl is approximately 10 inches. This replacement might appear slightly different, but it will fit your appliance. You will need no tools to complete this repair. Simply remove the burner element, remove the old bowl, line up the hole on the new bowl with the terminal block and drop it into place. Make sure the bowl is flat before reinstalling the element. While you have the element out you should inspect the terminals for corrosion, damage, or discolouration. If you notice any of those things you should also replace the element and terminal block. You will need to replace your drip bowl if it is lost, damaged, or can no longer be cleaned. This replacement part is sold individually. To extend the life of your new drip bowl we recommend you clean it regularly with soap and water. We recommend only using the recommended drip bowl for your appliance; generic versions will not fit properly which could affect the performance of your elements and cause long-term damage.
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031
$22.16
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #330031
This newer-style terminal block kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped wires with terminals, two ceramic wire nuts, a heat shrinking tube, and a mounting screw.
Drawer Rail Guide  - Right Side – Part Number: 4975JJ2028C
No Longer Available
Drawer Rail Guide - Right Side
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #4975JJ2028C
This guide rail, also known as a drawer slide rail, is a genuine OEM replacement part for the freezer section of your refrigerator. This slide rail supports the storage basket in your freezer, allowing you to slide it open with ease. Our customers have rated this repair as easy.
Door Stopper – Part Number: 4620JJ2009A
$15.35
In Stock
Dishwasher Screw – Part Number: WPW10348409
$10.44
In Stock
Dishwasher Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WPW10348409
Sold individually.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$66.88
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set features a two-piece design that allows fat to drain away for cleaner cooking and reduced splatter. Made with a durable, high-heat resistant porcelain finish, it offers reliable performance and easy cleanup. Measuring approximately 16 3/4 inches long by 12 3/4 inches wide and 1 3/4 inches high, it provides a practical solution for everyday broiling and roasting.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$10.40
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Rail Guide Assembly - Left Side – Part Number: 4975JJ2028D
$117.79
On Order
Rail Guide Assembly - Left Side
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #4975JJ2028D
This left-side drawer slide is designed for use in select refrigerator-freezer models, supporting the freezer drawer and allowing it to glide smoothly in and out. Made of durable white plastic and measuring approximately 15 inches in length, it is specifically engineered for installation on the left side and is not interchangeable with the right-side slide. If the current slide is broken or no longer able to support the drawer, replacement is necessary to ensure safe and reliable operation. Installation requires only a screwdriver to remove the old slide and secure the new one. This item is sold individually and does not include the mounting screw or the right-side slide.
Surface Burner Element - 8 Inch – Part Number: WP3191454
$144.17
Special Order
Surface Burner Element - 8 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WP3191454
This large surface burner is 2100W.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: 6600JB1010A
$46.15
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #6600JB1010A
This door switch is used in refrigerators. It is activated by the closing and opening of the door

Exact Part matches for your search term

1IN CLEAN WATER PUMP – Part Number: 7730
No Longer Available
1IN CLEAN WATER PUMP
This part number matches the current model number 7730
Part #7730

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Ice was building up in the bottom floor of the freezer
42 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald S. from SANTA CLARITA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
This refrigerator/freezer problem had been escalating for almost a year, requiring me to frequently knock the ice buildup free with a rubber mallet. I finally decided to try to identify the problem by removing the freezer door and all of the shelves and shelf tracks (easily removed with only a phillips screwdriver). Then I removed the bac k plastic panel to expose the cooling coils, which were partially encased in ice. I deduced that the evaporator fan motor was failing, which blows air over the freezer cooling coils and forces the cool air up into the upper refrigerator section (which was not staying cold). I then found and ordered the fan motor from part select. Their search function and exploded drawing schematics made it easy to identify the part and part number. It seems the original part number had been superceded with a new number, which I ordered. Once it arrived after about a week, I transferred the fan blades from the old motor to the new fan motor, and after completely drying out the freezer compartment, I reinstalled all of the parts and plugged in the unit and waited. By the next day, the refrigerator was operating at peak efficiency, and the ice buildup in the freezer has not returned. I was very close to scrapping the entire refrigerator as junk, but with a little diagnostic effort and about $110 for the new motor, I have a fully functioning refrigerator again. Thanks to Part Select for a great experience.
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Remove and replace light switch
45 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debbie from Waltham, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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