7730 - Instructions

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it p ... Read more opped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back ... Read more into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

(1) Gasket holder is quite simple. Remove snap-on trim to expose gasket. Identify upper and lower clips (white 1" long) that hold gasket holder into frame of fridge door. Gently pry out / remove with flat-headed screwdriver. Gasket holder will slide out frpm the gasket. Replace - make sure you get the cam facing the correct way at the t ... Read more op of the holder. This is a pretty easy repair, 20 minutes beginning to end. (2) RHS light switch failed - replaced both -- door hinge cap removes w/ a single appliance screw - switches are plug-in to the wiring assembly, and snap into place in the hinge cap.

This was a piece of cake! We put off doing this for ourselves because we thought it would be difficult. We sold the house and "had" to do it. Turns out we should have done it for ourselves a long time ago.

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink slee ... Read more ves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp ... Read more enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

After I removed the piece of metal separating the two wires, I inserted the unit with no problem.

Used a screwdriver to take off broken clip and then used same screwdriver to replace with new clip. Very easy.

1st, emptied top freezer basket, used drill to remove 3 mounting screws, held new rail guide in place, installed same screws into freezer wall. Hand tightened with hand screwdriver to avoid over torquing with drill.

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

Simply removed the old heating element and plug the new element terminals into socket.