66517152K217 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

First i turned off the water and the power, then removed the two screws to the access panel under the door. Then remove 1 screw to the electrical box and removed the wire nuts and pulled the cable out of the box. Then disconect the water supply which is up front, but very little room to work. I didn't have to diconnect the drain hose because it was long enough for me to pull out the machine. After removing to screws that hold the machine to the counter you can pull it out. Remove 2 wire from the terminals of the heat coil. Unscrew the plastic nuts from the washer and remove. Assemble in reverse order and check for leaks. I tested the old element as well as the new element for resistance before installing.

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Ordering the part was very easy. It shipped fast and delivered over 3 days. It fit perfectly

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

New one snapped right into place.

I checked the manual to determine the code meaning for 7 blinks, it was heating issue. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. When the part came in, I googled the internet for "How to replace a dishwasher heating element". There were several options, I chose one that was a video showing a handyman go through each step. I followed the steps, with no problems, and WA-LA! Felt good (as the wife of the house) to do it myself!

I saves the old part to see how it was to be installed. It was very easy. I saved the $50 + dollars for a SERVICE CALL.

The air just unscrews with one twist and the new arm twist right back on. No tools needs. Saved me $100 service call.

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.

I just snapped the old one off and snapped the new one on..

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated