6651598999 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.
I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.
This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.
I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date.
Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.
I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway.
Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.
From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.

This part is extremely delicate if put in or if you try and force it on. You will break more than you fix. There is a definite trick and when you know it, the installation is (no pun) a snap. The trick is to place the small plastic in such a position that the only "snap' required for installation is on the heaviest and thickest port of the small part. Then carefully use the pliers to pinch only between the plastic covered bar and the heavy part of the plastic clip...blip, it goes right on. Try it any other way and you will break more than you can fix....

As others have described, this replacement was very easy. The new spray arm is solid plastic instead of rubber (which had deteriorated and was the part that needed replacing). So it should last longer.

You have to keep and reuse the mounting bracket that attaches the spray arm to the upper rack, so don't throw that away!

The replacement was super-easy, and as others have commented, the dishes haven't been this clean for a long time. Well worth it.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.

Removed the 4 screws that hold on the 2 lower front covers. Removed the old broken spring with just my fingers. Put the new spring in, again, with just my fingers. Put the two covers back on. I didn't even need to slide the unit out from under the counter!

The mounting bracket was broken.

The parts ordered were a direct match due to the fantastic pictures supplied on this site.
A dealer wanted to order it and then I would have had to drive and pick it up - no way.

partselect.com first time user - very easy.

Directions were somewhat generic, but clear enough to figure out that I had to remove the toe plate and front cover below the main door to disconnect the two springs that held the door in tension. I then removed the old door seal (really a splash guard), and scraped off some scum. Then I pried apart a metal tab on each side of the door to facilitate lifting up on the two hinge rods on the door to get to the two corner water diverter pieces that really keep the water in the dishwasher. These two pieces deteriorate over time like the splash guard. The reverse assembly process was simple, NO LEAKS.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

The only difficult part was taking out (relatively easy) and returning (hard) the clips from the rails. This required bending the end of the metal rails with pliers. Otherwise the dishrack just rolled in with no issues.

The spinner is somewhat lower than the one it is replacing, making the clearance over items in the lower rack to be serviceable but marginal.

Turned off the power, just to be safe.

Removed the lower panel (4 screws). That made it easier to remove the lower 2 screws on the door panel. Slid the panel down slightly, then pulled off.

Removed the old dispenser - disconnected 2 wires, removed 6 screws, pushed in the plastic clips.

Pushed the new unit into place - clips click in. replaced 6 screws and 2 wires. Put the panels back on. Power on.

About 25 minutes.

Install was very easy. Used hands, pliers to pull out old gaskets. Wiped down old dirt in track. Started from (top) middle of door frame and used some soap with warm water to insert new gaskets. That's it! Kept old plastic brackets in place because it was too difficult to remove door springs. Old door seal and lower door seal were badly worn (gummy and falling apart) - Thought that was the issue with the water leaking. Nope, I was wrong. Looks like the tub seal, and the plastic bearing that is under the spray arm. Going to buy new instead of diving in the money pit. 10 years old, motor corroded from water over the years.

Removed old seal, cleaned track, applied adhesive for new seal, seated new seal in track, closed door for 24 hours to allow adhesive to cure, then used dishwasher without difficulty. An easy repair.

The video offered was perfect and walked me through the exact process and gave me the confidence i could handle this repair myself. It was very intuitive and went step by step. Thank you for taking the time to post the repair steps on video. Ordering the parts was very simple and they arrived on time. Flawless in every aspect. i would recommend your company.