56021A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

I had to take the washer outside since there was no room to work on it in the laundry room. The extra space allowed me to spread out the parts, use the garden hose to clean and have light enough to take digital pics of the wiring before I disconnected them to remove the upper panel.

Removing the upper retaining ring for the tub was simple with only 4 screws. The agitator pulled right up and out. The nut cover/agitator anchor removed easily with one bolt.

The tough part was the inner tub base hub nut that I could not get off. Another user had commented on how they had to chisel the nut off and that was the best advice. I used my air chisel on either side of the nut and it was pretty quick to get off - within 3 min. If I hadn't read that I wouldn't have ordered another nut to replace the one I chiseled off.

The diagrams and repair stories really made the difference. Cleaning and reassembling was done within about an hour - cleaning the 11 years of soap scum at least an hour total before and after replacing the parts.

Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.

She led a good life.

My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..

The parts were here in 3 days and the repair went very quickly .Quality item would do business again.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

Removed the screws for the control panel and replaced the load switch and valve body in about 20 minutes. Simple fix and it's working perfectly!

took it appart and found that the suspension rod was broken. went on line an ordered the parts.
The parts arrived 3 days later. Installed the parts and the washing machine was working within a half hour.

I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.

First I removed the old part (2 screws)
Pulled off 4 wires (maybe the wrong word, I'm not a professional!
Put the new part in-turned the water on and had a stream of HOT water-yay
I had been putting this off because no one in my family had noticed (except me) and with my husband out of work it seemed like a low priority, but when my daughters came home for Christmas, they said "There's no hot water in the washing machine" so I took the plunge--I cannot believe I waited that long!
It literally took me seven minutes!

Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid
Disconnected power from wall
Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor
Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose
Removed top lifts off easliy
With help released Washing drum assy from hangers
Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine
Pulled agatator up and off of hub
Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket
Pull off cap
Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut
Removed inner washing drum
Turned over Entire Assy (motor up)
Removed belt (slid off)
Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum
Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out
Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.
There were service instruction under the front control panel.

I remove three screws on top of the washer, moved the cover of the machine in order to get access to the water valve, and then desconnected the two solenoid of the valve,and removed two screws that hold the valve with the frame and installed the new valve in same order a took the old one.

First, I removed the four screws to expose the control panel. Then I removed both of the wiring connections on the switch, unscrewed the two screws holding the switch, and removed it carefully. Take the time to look at the old switch because it does not simply lift off the panel. It has a sliding lock to keep it in place on the panel and you must be careful when you remove it or install a replacement. The new switch installed easily, so I reconnected the power and started the washer. Bingo!

Left up agitator, use socket set to remove agitator coupling. Then replace old agitator coupling with the new one. Tighten nut with socket set, replace agitator. Yes it is that easy.

at the bottom of the tub their is a mettal peace witch holds the tub to the transmision witch is made of zink(aka junk metal or zink+tin)witch broke stoping tub from sping the clotes dry so atfer odering the new part and nut..
and finding out that it is a LEFTHAND nut made of alumanum
taking a small drill bit 1/8" and drilling the nut to weakin it making it brake able then cleaning the treds up
the new part fit right in the tufest part was hold the trans still to get the nut on tightenuf to hold the tub

Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.