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41791702001 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Loud squealing when dryer was turning. At first it was just when it started and eventually it was constant.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from GRANBURY, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Be carful when unpacking, the grounding bearing is in loose with the bolts. I had to chase it. Follow the video instructions for the stacked washer/dryer combo and you will not have a problem. Recommend you have two people working to lift the drum out and to install the new bearing.
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The drier was "screeching"
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michel from CHICAGO, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First of all, the folks at Part Select have been terrific. I balled up my address and they were great in correcting my error and getting the parts promptly to me. They provide directions with the parts. And You Tube, is a wealth of information too. The process is to remove the drum and replace the nylon busihing that supports the drum
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at the back of the machine. Getting it out was no sweat. Getting the drum back in was a bit more challenging single handed. If I was going to make any suggestion it would be this is a good project for two sets of hands with the second set needed for about ten minutes. The You Tube video I watched said putting the front cover with the drum attached to the back of the unit would be the challenge and they were right. Otherwise, super easy and the results are it's back to "new" condition. Thanks again to Part Select!
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Washer did not drain, would not cycle; pump was 'humming' and not moving water
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DANIEL from PINCKNEY, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turne
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d the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.
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Pump motor made humming noise and wouldn't drain water from tub.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Oakford, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse
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replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.
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My heating element had gone out
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Van from BLUFFDALE, UT
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing
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Squeaky drum until drum would not turn.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from ODESSA, TX
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter ... Read more mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter ... Read more mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
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lack of heat
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ann from WALLA WALLA, WA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Remove top lid by pushing tab on either side with a putty knife. Disconnect the 2 wire carriages on right. Remove one
phillips head screw on each side that holds front panel to dryer body. Remove front panel by using flat head screwdriver to pry panel from body. Remove thermostat located on bottom right attached to front of mot ... Read more or on a plastic body by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnect wires and place on new part.
phillips head screw on each side that holds front panel to dryer body. Remove front panel by using flat head screwdriver to pry panel from body. Remove thermostat located on bottom right attached to front of mot ... Read more or on a plastic body by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnect wires and place on new part.
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The thermostat had deteriorated and no heat
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from ROUND TOP, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Had to loosen drum and move it forward to get at switch. Didn’t have to remove belt.
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Front drum guidesnubber ring was worn out
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alan from Emporia, KS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed the top of dryer, pulled front panel back from drum and installed snubber(Front Drum guide).
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no filter
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Luis from La Jolla, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
filter inalled
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clothes were getting stuck
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from lake worth, FL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
after numerous holes put in my families clothes i looked on line and found "partselect.com". i ordered the front drum glide after seeing a similar story about the clothes being torn and getting caught and my family and i have our new dryer back!! yeah :<)
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Leveling Leg Broken
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Rochester, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installa
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tion for DIY. The new legs work great.
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over filling
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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eliot from fairbanks, AK
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!
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May not have to take out the whole drum to replace the limiter!
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from CRANBURY, NJ
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are e
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asily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.
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Drive Belt Was Noisy-Slipping
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Carrollton, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out bel
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t by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.
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