41789980100 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the 41789980100
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Leaking washing machine.
24 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from Williamsburg, MI
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removing the piece above the tub gasket was very difficult. A lot of hammer and chisel work.
15 year old machine. A lot of calcium build up around the shaft. I used a screw driver as a chisel and a hammer. Carefully removed the metal around the shaft to get to the tub seal.
Once I got to the tub seal it was easy. Remove t he old rubber stops. There were a few pieces. Then sealed it back up with the oil that came with the PartSelect Kit and put it back together. Works great now. No more LEAKS! Yippy.
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No Final Spin Burning Smell
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NELSON from MAYWOOD, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed 2 screws at bottom of the front panel - removed front panel by sliding the panel down about 1/2 inch and then away from the appliance- v belt is removed by pushing the tensioner pulley to remove tension from the belt and turning the pulley untill the belt is removed instalation is a simple reverse of the process. I did't have a repair manual so every step was trial and error untill I was able to complete the repair.
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Washer wouldn't spin
22 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • KELLEY from KANSAS CITY, MO
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Received lid lock within 24 hours, fixed washer within 10 minutes...up and running. Thanks.
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No Cold Water
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have cl ean clothes.
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Burning smell, lots of hi-pitched squeaking
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heather from Stephenville, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.
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water continued to flow into machine during spin cycle
16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from Lcolnton, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, di sconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.
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Washer machine would fill up with water and not spin and drain
18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARC from MANALAPAN, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.
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Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from Loveland, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.
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Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!
13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from waynesboro, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
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Small water leak around front of machine and clothes would not spin dry.
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chanc from Gibson City, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel on and slid the panel down to remove it, after first lifting the top panel and supporting it in the upright position out of the way. popped the two clips that hold the pump on, and used the pliers to remove the hose clamps on the pump. the pump was rusted to the motor shaft, so I had to use some force to pry it off of the motor. then i had to use some sandpaper to clean the rust off of the motor shaft. slid the new pump on and secured the hoses and hold down clips. then pushed the belt tensioner in and replaced the belt. the machine is like new again.
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washer belt broke
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from Boxford, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
followed the instructions on a blog
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Wretched screeching noise
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Broadalbin, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
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No hot Water to washing machine
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dominick from Las Vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.
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Wash tub would not drain/burning rubber smell
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clay from Kansas City, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and h ad pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
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leaking water inlet valve
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Oklahoma City, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve w as made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.
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All Instructions for the 41789980100
16 - 30 of 244