36362 Kenmore - Instructions

i had to replace the cooking tray after 9 yrs as i dropped it and broke it. i ordered the new tray in feb and rec'd it right away. the new tray mysteriously burst one day in the microwave after a few weeks. i spoke w someone at partselect and they replaced it right away. wonderful customer service. thank you.

Unscrewed bottom plate of microwave and two screws that secured motor. Disconnect wires. Reversed process when installing new motor. Couldn't have been easier.

put cooking tray in place

We were so happy to be able to order a replacement glass microwave tray after I broke ours during cleaning. In this throw-away world we live in, we assumed we would just have to buy a new microwave but ours was only two years old so we really didn't want to do that. We found the same microwave at the store but it had gone up in price quite a bit. Ordering this plate as a replacement part just made financial sense, and it was so easy to order. It arrived very quickly and we were extremely pleased with the whole experience.

Removed 2 screws that hold element and pulled old element out about 2 inches to disconnect the wires from the old element. Connected the new element and remounted to rear oven wall. Very simple and saved a visit from the appliance repairman.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
the repeated the process to complete the installation.
Relly easy.

The tray drive motor arrived quickly. I opened the package and made sure the correct motor arrived. I shut off the power to the microwave/exhaust hood. Then I grabbed a screwdriver and dropped 5 screws from the bottom of the microwave. I then removed 2 more screws that hold the motor in place. Unplugged the 21 volt power clips. Placed the new motor in position and replaced the screws and attatched the power clips. I then placed the bottom pan in position and replaced the 5 screws that hold it to the bottom of the microwave. Turned the microwave on and it worked properly! The total cost was $40 and I probably saved more than a hundred dollars on a service call. What a happy ending and it took about 5 minutes to perform the repair! Thanks PartSelect. You are the best!

TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Removed nut, washer and screw, pulled out electric burner about three inches, disconnected electric terminals and removed damaged element. Inserted new element into oven, connected electric terminals, pushed electric prongs back in, screwed element to back wall of oven....DONE Easy as 123

I was able to simply lift the broken turntable coupler from the bottom of the microwave. The smaller broken piece fell inside the body of the microwave. I tried unsuccessfully to retrieve it. When the new part arrived, I simply snapped it in place. Everything works good as new!

I had to pop off the facing on the microwave on the inside and then on the outside. On the inside, I used a kitchen knife to carefully pop off the facing. I found the screws that were holding the old handle on. I had to pop the back of the microwave door off to gain access to the other screws for the handles. The outer screws had to be put in place first, making sure that the glass did not slip. The facing needed to be popped back on before the inner screws were tightened. I tightened the inner screws and then popped the facing back on. The thing that took me the longest was figuring out how to pop the facing off and lining up the screws in the handles correctly.

Unplugged the microwave first, then removed the screws that hold the cover in place. This gives easy access to the socket. Remove the screws that hold the socket in, unplug old socket, replace with new one and you are back in the light again.

I removed a plastic cover that goes around the glass on the back of the microwave, There are two screws that hold the handle, I took the two screws out, put the new handle in place and put the screws back on and thight them. Make sure handle was secured and then put back the plastic cover around the glass door, took me about 15 minutes.

I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.

To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.

A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.