1999 - Instructions

remove the bin from the freezer, there are 2 tabs on the lower front cover that pop off and you just pull the entire front cover off. there are 4 nuts that hold the blade cover which you can use the 7in1 with the insert removed.. i believe it's 5/16". remove the cover and the tumbler assembly pops out of the tray.
remove the nut with a set of pliers and lay it out on the table in order.
install is reverse of removal. make sure you get all the washers in the correct location when assembling. don't tighten the nut too tight or it will bind the rotating assembly.

enjoy retrieving ice from the door again!

I first replaced the fan, because it wouldn't run, then replaced the defrost thermostat, because I didn't know how to test it, and the defrost control board, because it was all I thought was left. Turns out it was the defrost heater. The control board senses current flow through the heater and switches the fan off. With an open element the fan won't work. This can be tested with an Ohm meter. The thermostat will test open at room temperature, this is normal.

Removed the back wall (several screws) of the freezer too get at the thermostat and removed the thermostat and after checking to makes sure I plugged the wires in correctly I replaced the defrost timer by removing the housing that held it in place, which was located underneath the freezer compartment on outside of the unit. That was it!

Removed under-door front panel. Removed broken spring from right side. Hold door half open, insert spring with plastic bearing into hole in door hinge. Pull down to seat bearing in hinge. With needle nose pliers insert spring into hole at base of washer. ( You do not need to pull washer out of position)

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

I unplugged the unit, removed the freezer racks and removed the back panel to expose the evaporator. I removed the defrost thermostat, unplugged the wires, and installed the new thermostat. I replaced the panel and racks then removed the defrost timer kit by removing the two screws that fastened the cover to the refrigerator and the two screws that secured the timer to the cover. The timer is centered behind the front toe grille assembly. I installed the new timer, replaced the cover, and plugged the refrigerator in. It took several minutes for the defrost timer to advance before the evaporator fan would come on.

Removed screw that held the old Water Reservoir Kit with screwdriver. Used box cutter to cut line in and line out of old reservoir kit and cut off enough of the length of line in and line out of new reservoir kit to make a good fit between old and new lines. Added the connection fittings between the old lines and new lines just below new water reservoir kit inside refrigerator door. Did not need to replace entire lines because the old water lines was in very good shape. This cut down on the repair time. Entire job took about 15 to 20 minutes. This corrected the leak and ice maker now makes plenty of ice.

noticed the fridge and frezzer were not cold one day.i got on google and typed in the problem and found out the the relay goes bad rather often. was an easy fix. found the parts here on partselect and recieved in with in 2 days of ordering. pulled the old part out put new part in and plugged fridge in and was back up and running with in minutes..thank you partselect....

The icemaker unit comes right off, only 3 screws hold it in place, so it was a breeze replacing it. I probably saved a couple hundred bucks by doing it myself, thanks to the great service at partselect.com.

remove lower access panel to expose spring. remove broken spring with longnose pliers. with door closed install upper hook of spring with nylon bushing on door hinge. using longnose pliers pull down on spring to hook on lower braket.

Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.

Shut water off at source, disconnect electrical supply at wall, remove screws retaining cardboard dust cover, and remove cover. Removed water supply line to control valve, remove two screws retaining unit to frame of refrigerator, and gently pull out unit. Remove two water lines, making sure to note where each line was connected to unit. Remove two electrical connectors, making sure to note where each line was connected, remove old valve. Noting where mounting bracket is positioned, remove old mounting bracket from valve, and reinstall bracket on new valve the same way. Coat threads lightly on new valve with vaseline, reinstall valve in reverse order, making sure not to over-tighten water connections. Note, before installing dust cover, reconnect wall power, and turn on water and inspect for leaks, at connections. Tighten leaking connections very slightly until leak stops. Reinstall dust cover, and carefully return refrigerator to it's original location.

Removed the rubber cover over the actuator switch. Used a screwdriver to remove the switch, disconnected the wires. I then removed the switch from the mounting bracket using a small philips head screw driver. Installed the new switch on the mounting bracket then installed the switch onto the freezer door. The only difficult part was installing the rubber cover. Now I just need to repair the damage to my hardwood floors and carpet from all the water.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.