1985818201 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1985818201
31 - 45 of 301

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Cold water side of inlet valve makes loud noise.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kurt from Rock Hill, SC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Actually, the loud noise would happen only when valve shuts down water flow after filling up the washer (when water flow stops and washing cycle begins).
Replacement part was almost exactly the same. I did not need little transparent hose piece (used clamp that was already there). I used a combination of repair tips others already li sted here: unplug washer's electricity cord 1st ( turn water off ; unhook hoses from back of washer(...); remove top screw off of inlet valve's back panel first and push up/out the bottom; unscrew valve off of panel; without yanking things around much, note exact connections of cables & hose(s); replace with new part, and put back on in reverse order.
One important note: the new part's screw holes were ungrooved but not too hard to slowly work in the screws because of the soft alloy. Be patient, good luck!
PartSelect: Great website/catalog, great service.
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Secaucus, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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The washing machine would fill up with water when it was not in use.
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARK from ENGLEWOOD, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
I turned the water off, detached the hoses and unscrewed the water inlet valve. I unhocked the wires and reattached the wires in the correct sequence on the water inlet valve. Done in 15 minutes.
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Letting to much water in.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harold from CLERMONT, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.
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No cold water -- only hot
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darla from Loves Park, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of t he time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!
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oven wouldn't light
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from marine city, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to f ully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
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Slow fill cycle - Hot water barely ran into tub during fill
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Thousand Oaks, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the power cord from the wall. Then I turned off the water supply shut-offs at the wall and removed the hot & cold connections at the rear of the washer. Then I removed the two screws that held the assembly in the rear of the washer. I then pulled the assembly out about 3-inches, marked the new assembly to show the pro per color of wire for each lug and disconnected the four wires at the lugs. I disconnected the rubber fill hose from the assembly and removed the assembly. Next, I installed the new assembly in the reverse order. It worked fine without any leaks & saved me from buying a new washer. My old washer now gets my clothes cleaner than it has for years - much quieter and quicker too.
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Oven wouldn't heat.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from La Crescenta, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pus hed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.
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Oven wouldn't heat/ turn on
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Diane from NEW HAVEN, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.
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Cold water barely coming in.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from Priest River, ID
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.
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Oven ignighter no longer works
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from PORTERVILLE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel  t ool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!

Barry
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Self tapping screws stripped out, one broke in mounting hole
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from FORT WORTH, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.
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Water overflow
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ellen from WILLITS, CA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you
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OVEN WOULD NOT HEAT
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from MEADVILLE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN
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All Instructions for the 1985818201
31 - 45 of 301