1525 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1525
31 - 45 of 50

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Right front surface burner did not work due to broken burner plug in wire harness.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from Rock Hill, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.
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burner wouldn`t stay hot.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cary from Gilbertsville, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws fo r the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.
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Sparks where the heating element plugs into the stovetop
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from Sayre, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the con nectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.
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replace burner coil connector
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dicky from mcrae, AR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Cut the two wires approx 1 inch behind old connector and removed one screws to remove old connector, stripped approx 3/4 inch off the wires and connected them to the new wires on the new connector with wire caps and shrink wraps which came with the new connector. Replaced the old screw with the new screw and the job was completed. Be su re and disconnect power before starting!!
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large burners not working
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Versailles, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Read instuctions first Turn breaker off to stove or unplug to be sure. Remove burner and drip pans. Remove scews holding socket in place if you are doing more than one make sure you keep in same location. Raise cook top untill supports latch in. Assemble plug it comes with two types holder compare to your plug. cut wire to old plug so yo u have enough wire to connect back with new. Strip wire back and place shrink tubeover wires wire nut together heat with a lighter or heat gun then do remaining plugges. place back in cover and replace scews. make sure wire are not to long to get under burner when cook top lowered. Lower cook top and clean burner plug ends with a little sandpaper to make sure they make good connection. replace pans and burner. turn on breaker or plug in stove making sure the burners come on when turned on good luck g.d.
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Top element not heating
  • Mary from Montgomery, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Ordered wrong part at first caused me to blow out two elements. With the help of PartSelect I was able to get the right surface block terminal and replaced both of them, then found out I had a bad switch, they got the switch within 2 days I had my stove working good again. Thanks to PartSelect. Also watched the video which was very helpf ul ML
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Plug block was broken
  • Mark from Hillsboro, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!
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Burners did not get hot or went on and off
  • Boyd from kalamazoo, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After carefully inspecting existing burner receptacles, I unscrewed them, raised and propped stove top. Determined which bracket to use from new kit and proceeded to cut and strip wires, twist ends together with supplied ceramic caps and heated shrink wrap on that junction. Works great. BTW got parts in 2 days in great shape and good dir ections.
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stove burner no longer would heat up burner element
  • Bonnie from Price, UT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.
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two of the burners were working intermittently
  • Kevin from Desoto, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I shut off the breaker checked for power then cut old plugs making sure to allow a little slack. Tightened down wire nuts put on a couple wraps of electrical tape and that was it. Burners work great now I would reccomend this product to anyone with a similar problem.
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Burner was slow heating at times. Moved back burner to front still same thing.
  • Gail M from Lockport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.
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burner not working
  • gene from kent, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
burner was shorting out replaced part works great
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burner would not heat up the connection was bad
  • Earl from Union Mills, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
loosened the screw holding the block pulled it out toget to wire cut it about 4 inches long followed the inst.with block kit and it was a breeze. burner working fine now should have did it sooner.
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Burner keep coming on and going off had a short in burner plug-in block.
  • Judith from Staunton, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off stove breaker. Unscrewed burner from stove top, took out burner and spill pan. Lifted top of stove, cut the wire as instructed and put all parts together as instructed. Placed everything back together as instructed. I did it myself!
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The surface burner socket that the burner plugs into melted.
  • Gary from Chesapeake, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Cut the old wires off, removed the screw holding the clamp, installed the new parts. Problems I encountered were the wire nuts. They were too small for the wire gage of the replacement part and the original oven. I had larger wire nuts in my workshop. Also, why so many extra parts like the shrink wrap tubing, two metal clamps to hold t he socket, etc.
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All Instructions for the 1525
31 - 45 of 50