1525 - Overview

Models starting with 1525

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Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031
$22.16
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #330031
This newer-style terminal block kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped wires with terminals, two ceramic wire nuts, a heat shrinking tube, and a mounting screw.
Range Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
$10.95
In Stock
Range Hex Nut
Part #WP112432
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
Fuel Valve With Bushing – Part Number: 192980GS
$33.95
Special Order
Fuel Valve With Bushing
Part #192980GS
This is a genuine replacement part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The valve fuel kit is commonly found in Craftsman pressure washers and generators. This part includes the valve made of high-quality plastic, and a rubber cap. It is used to carry fuel from the tank into the engine. You may require a screwdriver or Allen wrench when replacing this item.
Wheel – Part Number: 209636GS
$177.95
Special Order
Wheel
Part #209636GS
This is an authentic manufacturer made replacement part which is specially designed for use with Craftsman pressure washers. The wheels are attached to the bottom of the pressure washer and are used for transporting it from place to place. This part is made of rubber and metal and is sold individually, though two are required for the unit. For installation, you will need a socket wrench and a screwdriver to aid you.
Mount, Vibration – Part Number: 194153GS
$21.95
Special Order
Mount, Vibration
Part #194153GS
This item has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with portable generators from Briggs & Stratton. The metal and rubber mount is used to support the motor. This item absorbs vibration between the motor and the frame. The mount is priced as a single item.
Hhcs, 5/16-24 X 7 – Part Number: 47480GS
$20.95
Special Order
Hhcs, 5/16-24 X 7
Part #47480GS
Cable, Battery Charge – Part Number: 65787GS
$27.95
Special Order
Cable, Battery Charge
Part #65787GS
Power Regulator Assembly – Part Number: 84132GS
$65.95
Special Order
Power Regulator Assembly
Part #84132GS
This is a genuine OEM supplied part that is specially designed for Briggs and Stratton portable generators. The item provides an identical replacement for a faulty or a missing power regulator assembly that was installed on a new unit. It is made of high-quality materials and is sold as an individual item. Refer to the owner's manual and the appropriate diagrams for your model to ensure the correct repair procedure.
Assembly, Holder, Brush – Part Number: 66386GS
$43.95
Special Order
Assembly, Holder, Brush
Part #66386GS
This brush holder assembly is an authentic OEM replacement part that is specially designed for use on Briggs and Stratton generators. Brushes help to conduct electric current in the motor that powers the unit. This assembly includes one plastic brush holder and two carbon brushes with a lead wires and springs attached. You would need a screwdriver to complete this job.
Switch, Rocker – Part Number: 82538GS
$11.95
Special Order
Switch, Rocker
Part #82538GS
Vibe Mount, With Washer – Part Number: 191413GS
$11.95
Special Order
Vibe Mount, With Washer
Part #191413GS
It is a genuine item that is supplied directly from the original equipment manufacturer for use with Briggs and Stratton generators and pressure washers. The purpose of this component is to reduce the vibration of a working unit, unfortunately, over time it may begin to fail eventually requiring a replacement. Please make sure to refer to the appropriate diagrams of your model for the correct location and application of this part. Keep in mind this high-quality vibe mount with a washer is sold individually.
Bottle-Oil 28oz – Part Number: BB3061GS
$27.95
Special Order
Bottle-Oil 28oz
Part #BB3061GS

Exact Part matches for your search term

Cable sling – Part Number: 1525
No Longer Available
Cable sling
This part number matches the current model number 1525
Part #1525

Common Symptoms of models starting with 1525

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOAN from Pickford, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Fresno, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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