1259 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1259
46 - 60 of 121

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bottom trim had rusted out from water build-up
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from buford, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.
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Oven wouldn't heat.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clinton from Marion, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad i gniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.
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Melted plastic colander on a burner
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paula from Dyersburg, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I simply replaced the element. HOWEVER, the most wonderful parts of this repair...Because of the pictures and closeups and descriptions I knew exactly 'what' to order! And I had the replacement in less than 24 hours. I can do some home repairs but this company provided such detailed information AND speed of delivery...that this was a no-f uss fix. I'll definitely stop by to buy, again. Thanks!
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Intermittent heat then no heat on oven element
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from AKRON, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
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light wont come on
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Fort Collins, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the break er. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.
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Burner didn’t work right
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from MARION, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced switch. Works right now.
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The ignitor, for the baking unit, went out on my oven
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joey from Lowndesboro, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connecte d the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)
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Oven Wouldn't Heat; Broiler Worked Fine
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Brooklyn, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.
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Gas oven would not heat - Replaced igniter
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • M from MOORE, OK
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This model does not have a removable bottom drawer making access a bit of a challenge.
1. Remove power to the range.
2. Remove the oven door and the kick panel below.
3. Remove the floor of the oven.
4. Remove the burner shield.
5. Become a contortionist, then stick your head and torso in the gas oven.
6. Loo k at the top in the back to see how the broiler igniter is mounted. Use this to select the proper size wrench. I suggest using little ignition wrenches. The oven igniter is mounted in the same manner.
7. Locate the oven igniter at the bottom, in the back, at the center. Remove the small screw taking care that you do NOT drop the wrench or the screw. This will be done by feel as the screw is only visible after you remove it.
8. Route the wire of the new igniter down, next to the old igniter wire.
9. Crawl under the oven (behind the kick panel you removed, and cut the wire.
11. While you are under there, strip the insulation back on the wires about 3/8 inch. Splice the new igniter wire to the oven using the new wire nut. Check that it is secure.
12. Back to the oven. If your back is still holding up, remove the old igniter. Install the new igniter and the old screw. Tighten securely, taking care to not strip the threads.
13. Remove all of your tools, your head, and your torso.
14. Plug the oven back in temporarily, turn the oven on and verify the igniter heats up.
15. Unplug the range again.
16. Reinstall the burner shield, the oven bottom, the door and the kick panel.
17. Make sure you have all of your tools, stand up, and since you are now a contortionist, pat yourself on the back!
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I decided it was the switch that was bad as it would not turn on or anything.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Christy from OROFINO, ID
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.
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bunner was not shuting off automaticly
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from GROVE CITY, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.
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8” burner on low would run away. Burn solid red.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from SHELBYVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.
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Burner wouldn't regulate temperature
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from THE VILLAGES, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes
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8" FRONT BURNER STAYED ON HIGH HEAT/WOULD NOT REDUCE TEMPERTURE
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from DELTONA, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.
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Right front burner would only stay on high
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from YORK HAVEN, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.
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All Instructions for the 1259
46 - 60 of 121