11997 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11997
46 - 60 of 107

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Burner will not cool down. I have to switch all the way off.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bennie from Kite, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First unplug the electricity from the stove. Replacement terminals on back of switch are set different than the originals. So, I took notes (purple wire =P, Black wire=L1, two yellow wires = H1 & H2, and orange wire=L2). Your stove might be different in the color coding. Just take notes. First I unscrewed the screws on the top back plate of the stove. Removed the back plate. Took notes on where the wires went. Removed the wires going to the five terminals. Unscrewed the two screws on front panel of the stove holding the old switch in place. Removed the old switch. Put in the new switch through the back of stove. Determined the length of the control shaft. Take the switch back out. With two pliers on the control shaft, holding the pliers closer to the switch firmly, use the second pliers just past the predetermined breaking point. With the second pliers snap off the control shaft. Be careful not to snap off two much. Place the switch in the proper place and mount to the stove. You may need some parts in the assembly parts package for this. I did not. Inside of the parts package is a set of plastic parts. I selected the part I needed to insert into the control knob for a bushing just to take up space. I placed that part inside of the control knob. I then placed it onto the control shaft. Plug back the wire going to the electric outlet. Instead of unplugging and plugging, you might want to switch off the circuit breaker and switch back on when the job is done. It works!
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The Problem Was That The Plug Was Gone It Fell Down Out Of The Bracket
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elnora from Brundidge, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine
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Three of four electric coils won't turn on
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arsenio from Beaverton, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as supp ort to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.
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Broken hinge
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MICHAEL from MAY'S LANDING, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced same very simple.
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2 burner elements not heating
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from MENASHA, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Simple: Snip old terminal block off. Strip wires. Connect new Terminal block using twist-on wire caps (provided in kit). Mount to stove top with existing screw. TIP: Make sure you insert the wire lead into the terminal block the right way (not upside down). Otherwise burner element will not insert into terminal block properly.
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Heating coils stop heating
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from TEMPLE, GA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove heating coils raise stove top unsrew terminal blocks cut wires assemble terminals strip wires twist wires together install wire nuts apply heat shrink lower stove top plug in stove repair complete.Thanks.
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Sockets burnt out.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Bear, DE
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.
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Stove Burner wouldn't heat up
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donna from Sandwich, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Someone did the repair for me.
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Left rear burner had a damaged burner prong.
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jackie from Charlotte, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I just had to plug the new burner plate in the receptical
and it works again very well.
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Pitted, Eroded Drip Pans
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Josephine from Malden, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
1. First I pulled out the heating element from stovetop and removed old pan (no screws) very simple. 2. Put new pan in and inserted the heating element back in place.
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No Power to the Oven
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tony from Hartford, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.
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2 of the burners were not working arching and smoking
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tina from Laurel, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts t ogether with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.
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time to change water filter
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Warrensburg, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
first, there many different water filters. your experience will be different according to your water filter type.
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cooking element shorted out and did not heat.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carolyn from Fyffe, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...
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contacts in plug-in block badly burned & oxidized
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from port st lucie, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They w ork very well now.
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All Instructions for the 11997
46 - 60 of 107