11997 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11997
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Fresno, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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The elements were not heating up
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tanya from KALISPELL, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!
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Electric stove burners working intermitantly.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from St. Louis, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).
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Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis from Beloit, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
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Couldn't find replacement trays locally. Part Select was very helpful and prompt in shipping.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rosemary from St. Albans, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.
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I damaged surface element left kettle on without water in it
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from LANOKA HARBOR, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.
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Front left burner would not shut off, then switch fried
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • connie from madison, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.
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Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Puyallup, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink slee ves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
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Switches were going bad and making a popping sound and smoking.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joshua from Homestead, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair compa ny wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.
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Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Falmouth, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
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Stove-top Burner intermittently shut off and on-wouldn't heat properly
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from New Bloomfield, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
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element had been damaged
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Merle from Towanda, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I unplugged the damaged element and plugged in the new one. It took less trhan 30 seconds and the unit worked just fine.
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Burner would not heat up.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nancy from Baldwinsville, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!
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broken right side hinge
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • boutros from NORTHRIDGE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
remove the bottom storage door unhook 2 return spring check with flash light install support under the top cook door and open the top door slowly , remove 3 screws at the bracket slide out the hinge with springs and slide out the hinge from the door install the 2 springs the same way you take it out and reinstall bracket and screws and s prings and your done just picture and remember the you remove and reinstall i did it and i'm not a handy man i got happy when i did it my self i said wow to my self if i called some repair guy he possible wil charge me at least $ 125 to $ 150 for 25 min job
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the burner stop working
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony J from HAMMONTON, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just followed the instructions
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All Instructions for the 11997
16 - 30 of 107