119900 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 119900
91 - 101 of 101

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Burner was slow heating at times. Moved back burner to front still same thing.
  • Gail M from Lockport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.
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Replaced burner block
  • Glenn from Fossil, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Looked at the instructions and cut the wires, put the new wires in the block, attached the block to the range, put the new wires to the range wires using the wire nuts. I plugged the element into the block turned on the power, tried the element and it worked. It was really a easy repair.
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Drip Bowl Replacement
  • Jennifer from Arena, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I could not find the larger size universal drip bowl to fit the 8" burners on my stove. This product replacement is perfect.
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Burner keep coming on and going off had a short in burner plug-in block.
  • Judith from Staunton, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off stove breaker. Unscrewed burner from stove top, took out burner and spill pan. Lifted top of stove, cut the wire as instructed and put all parts together as instructed. Placed everything back together as instructed. I did it myself!
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Top element not heating
  • Mary from Montgomery, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Ordered wrong part at first caused me to blow out two elements. With the help of PartSelect I was able to get the right surface block terminal and replaced both of them, then found out I had a bad switch, they got the switch within 2 days I had my stove working good again. Thanks to PartSelect. Also watched the video which was very helpf ul ML
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electric surface unit not working
  • vincent from Martinsville, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.
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one burner that would not heat and others that would not out out much heat
  • Charles from Villa Ridge, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I noticed that one of the burner blocks was completely burned and the others were corroded. I ordered blocks for all four burners. Installation was easy except for one block. The screw holding the bracket to the range top was completely corroded in place. I used a correct size easy-out, which is a left hand tap and drill, to remove th e screw. That took about five minutes, including tracking the easy-out down in one of my many toolboxes. The entire replacement of four blocks took about one and a half hours. Stove top cooks like new on all burners! The part kit had all the right parts and they fit like a glove!
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Oven door hinges broken on range
  • Ross from Bridge Hampton, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First off I want to thank Parts Select for getting the parts to me with-in 24 hours. This is incredible, I effected the repairs with-in 45 minutes thanks to the instructions I found on your site. As a result of Parts Selects web site I think I can handle any appliance repair going forward. Many thanks Ross,
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Plug block was broken
  • Mark from Hillsboro, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!
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Electric Range Element's Not Heating
  • Robert from Waldorf, MD
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.
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Surface Indicator Light flickers and Element low heat
  • Robert from Waldorf, MD
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.
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All Instructions for the 119900
91 - 101 of 101