119900 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 119900
1 - 15 of 101

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Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
109 of 174 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede d are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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High heat reluctant to turn down.
45 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from New Port Richey, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics.
Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.

Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.

Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.

Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
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Right front burner would over-heat
23 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin from Attica, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered.
When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
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corroded terminals
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from hollywood, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
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Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaun from Whitehall, MD
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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The left front burner would not turn off, and the switch was sparking
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from Mulvane, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new swi tch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire.
Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.
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burner wouldnt heat
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Ashton, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element
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Enement was blew out.
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chhabildas from Charlotte, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I order the Element and received just in 4 days. It is Real incredible. I just opened the box and replaced the burners.
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Springs pooped off door hinges, causing hinges to break through door face
13 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Xavier from Rocky Point, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Remove decorative side panels on stove to expose backside of hinge and springs;
remove door;
remove old hardware;
since hinge openings were bent, straighten hinge opening in oven face;
attach spring to inside of oven;
slide hinge through opening;
attach spring to hinge;
screw hinges to oven face;
re peat on other side;
attach hinges to door;
while decorative panels are off, vacuum
install decorative panels.
DONE.
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Old switch killed by a short between wires
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darren from San Diego, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn off the electricity
Remove knob
Unscrew old switch
Lift stovetop & prop
Remove wires from switch
Remove switch
Plug wires onto new switch
Put new switch in place
Shut stovetop
Screw new switch in place
Trim knob post
Put adapter on post
Put knob back on
Turn electricity back on
Cook dinner :)
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Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOAN from Pickford, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Fresno, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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The elements were not heating up
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tanya from KALISPELL, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!
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All Instructions for the 119900
1 - 15 of 101