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110C71182011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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replace lint filter
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ed from Greensboro, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
with both hands
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LP gas conversion
11 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Palmdale, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Followed instructions, except to advoid sharp edges, and completed the job in under an hour.
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Dryer runs heats up, will run for a short period and then shuts down, after a minute or two it will come back on and will resume drying.
18 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Brookings,, OR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.
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Had to convert from natural gas to propane
12 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from The Rock, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well, here's the rub...in order to find out what part I needed to order, I needed to take the dryer apart to where the gas controls are, and there on a sticker was a part number for an LP conversion kit. But, in order to get to that gas valve unit, I fumbled about figuring out how to take this brand new dryer apart, since there were abs
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olutely no instructions whatsoever in the owners manual. And once apart, and pretty much all apart, I wondered how it would be that the Maytag repair man would be so lonely, as he'd have plenty to do.
However, the kit had great instructions as to how to take it apart and change out the orifices.
However, the kit had great instructions as to how to take it apart and change out the orifices.
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the directions didn't say I needed clips to hold the felt in place while I did the glue
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Todd from SAN JOSE, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Once I started using a bunch of clothespins to hold the felt in place and then started gluing small sections at a time I was able to complete the task. The glue comes out of the tube very quickly so don't squeeze it a lot.
Other Parts Used:
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The main knob insert snapped.
11 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from HICKORY, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
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Loud rumble noise while drum was turning
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marcia from CAmden, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the
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drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.
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dryer would not heat or turn off
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from eldridge, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.
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No Heat
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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NICHOLAS from PARMA, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (i
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t should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.
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No heat
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip from La Palma, CA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!
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Old screen failed ripped needed replaced.
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Kingman, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
After researching and finding correct replacement unit placed order and waited to receive. Screen is located top of dryer so replacement simple and fit was perfect.
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Dryer working, but not heating
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Amy from Birmingham, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set, Wrench set
Took back cover off
Disconnected part
Put new one in
Reconnected wires
Put back cover on
To verify that this was the needed part, I used a digital multimeter to confirm there was no continuity.
Disconnected part
Put new one in
Reconnected wires
Put back cover on
To verify that this was the needed part, I used a digital multimeter to confirm there was no continuity.
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handle broke on filter
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Connie from Gaithersburg, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
just slide the new filter in.
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the glow ignitor would not cycle on
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Georgio from Oradell, NJ
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the g
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low plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
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no heat was being produced
9 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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reinaldo from guttenberg, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website
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