1109875279A Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.

I called a repairman, who diagnosed the problem as a faulty leaf switch in the lid assembly -- the little rod on the lid that normally would depress the switch was working fine, but the switch was not closing. At my direction, he bridged the wires from the switch as a test, and it worked fine. So I ordered a new switch from you guys and swapped the new one out with the old one. Two flat screws to remove the slanted top panel, and at the rear of the panel are two hex-top screws holding the lid assembly on. Undo the hex-top screws, lift off the lid assembly, unplug the interlock between the washing machine power and the lid, and find a clean place to lay the lid assembly. Replacing the switch is a snap -- the part you sold came with its own wiring, and all it takes is take the old part out and put the new part in. Easy peasy. Getting the lid assembly back takes a little work because the fasteners are a little tricky to position correctly -- they will fall off the lid assembly and repositioning them may involve a bit of trial and error -- but once it is properly positioned, it takes a total of six screws and you're done. Two for the switch (Philips), two hex heads to fasten the lid assembly to the washer chassis, two to button up the front access panel.. A caution -- make sure the machine is unplugged when you do the repair, or else the washing machine may cycle into a spin cycle when you plug the interface back in and surprise you.

We watched a video on YouTube; it was very easy . We had to use the mounting bracket.

Watch the video before I received the part. Made it very simple to replace and which screws to take out.

The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.

Unplugged it. Removed the two screws holding the panel on. This model had the screws on the front. Unplugged the wire harness and tipped the control panel back. I popped off the clips for the cabinet and slid it off the frame. On the back of the washing machine, I unscrewed two screws that held the water inlet valve in place. I unhooked the two wire harnesses on the inlet valve. Slid the clamp on the small hose back and pulled the hose off the inlet valve. Once I had the old part off, it was just a matter of doing it all in reverse. I did have to screw the metal plate that came with the part onto the part before I installed it. I put the small hose onto the new inlet valve and slid the clamp back in place on the hose. Put the new valve through the holes on the back of the machine, and replaced the two screws. Click the two wire harnesses back on, making sure to put the RED harness on the HOT valve (the holes have the stamp H and C on the back of the machine itself. Slid the cabinet back into place. Put the wire harness back on. Replaced the cabinet retainer clips. Slid the control panel back into the slots and replaced the two screws for it. That was it. All told it took me 15 minutes total. This was an extremely easy repair.

Followed the instructions. Removed two screws on front panel, flipped it up and popped up the retainer clips. Tipped the washer body forward. Unscrewed the old valve and replaced with the new. Reversed the previous procedures and put the whole thing back together. I had put up with this low flowing water for a couple years. Now it fills like new!

First I unscrewed two screws holding the back panel. Unscrewed the screws holding the water valve onto the back panel. With a screwdriver, pried the panel out far enough to pull the old water inlet valve out. Remove the connections on the old valve and replace with the new one. Screw everything back together. Fairly easy repair. Cold water flows like new and the noise is gone. Hope to get another few years out of the washer for this $25 fix.

Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair.
Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.

Removed two screws holding top control section on, and folded back the control panel. Removed two clips holding cabinet on, tipped cabinet toward me and off. Removed and replaced water valve, being careful to mark hot/cold hoses, and secure the internal hose to the valve with the spring clamp. Most difficult part was lining back up the cabinet when putting it back on the base, but a few minutes to line up tabs and get the front of the cabinet UNDER the front groove in the base got it secure. Works fine now.

The replacement of the water inlet valve was not too difficult after reading the steps posted by others. The main step is to unscrew the top control panel first, remove the top 2 screws of the back panel, and you have easy access to the water inlet valve. No need to remove the entire back panel. Follow the instructions which accompany the replacement water inlet valve and you should have no problems. The washing machine now fills faster with the replaced water inlet valve. The replacement inlet valve arrived within 2 days of ordering! Thanks for the superfast shipment!

1. Unplug washer, close hot and cold water supplies and remove water hoses from washer inlet valve.
2. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front of the control panel.
3 Remove two screws at the top of the back side of the control panel.
4. Remove control panel.
5. Remove two retainer clips that hold the back panel to the top of the cabinet by prying them out from the front with a large screwdriver. (Probably the most difficult part of the job.)
6. Use a socket or nut driver to remove the two screws that hold the valve to the back panel.
7. Lift the cabinet from the bottom rear and tilt the cabinet forward until you can access the valve.
8. Remove the wire harnesses from the hot and cold valves taking note of the wire orientation. (The red one will go back on the hot valve.)
9. Use pliers to open the hose retainer clip and slid the clip out of the way and remove the hose from the valve.
10. Reverse the process and you are done!

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Initially, we thought the problem was in the water inlet valve and we changed it out. It went OK although the Kenmore almost fell apart after the removal of a few screws and the control unit.
Only thing was that it was unncessary. The real problem was not in the cold water turn on valve, but in the hose. The hose was special in that it was designed to shut off under emergency conditions. It appeared to be able to passs water when tested at my sink, but when connected to the washing machine and under presssure, it would not pass water. I had installed the part by this time so I left it there. I found the Kenmore washing machine rather flimsy in it's construction and tended to totally come apart once a few screws were removed.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done