110963 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110963
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Dryer motor would not turn on
51 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Bluffton, SC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.
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Drum of the dryer was rotating but no heating
45 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tomasz from University Heights, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
First I removed the back cover (several screws). Then, I disconected wires from the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse (both of these parts were included in the Thermal Cut-Off Kit). Then, I removed four screws that hold these two parts, replaced the parts, put the screws back, and attached the wires. Finally, I put back t he cover.
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Dryer would not start
42 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DAVID from WAREHAM, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
My wife was doing a load of laundry when she thought the the dry cycle was finished she found the cloths still wet. When she went to restart the dryer nothing. I did some research online and found the most common problem was the thermal fuse. I removed the back of the dryer removed the fuse and checked for continuity with my volt meter . I thought that I was going to find alot of lint build up. However I did not so I decieded to also replace the thermostat, using the thermo cut-off kit because this might have caused the fuse to fail. I ordered the parts from partselect and they arrived in two days. Partselect has excellent instructional videos on how to make the repair. It was quick and easy and saved the money of just going out and buying a new appliance.
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No power
45 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nick from Brandon, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.
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Busted Belt & Pulley
43 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from West Haven, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actua lly did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
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Dryer would not shut off on auto dry settings
42 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wiliam from Belleville, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.
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the dryer element was not coming on and looked like it had burned up
41 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Benjamin from Greenville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
i decided to order the new element which was the most expensive part then decided to add the thermostats just incase they were bad because they were rather inexpensive. got the parts in took the back off the dryer located the parts i ordered and simply replaced them with the power cut off to the unit. put the back on and it heated like i t was better that new my clothes dry 5 times faster than it did when i bought the thing.
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Needed lint filter for my old Kenmore dryer that was no longer manufactured by Sears.
35 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Fairfax, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Lint filter supplied by Parts Select was an exact replacement by an aftermarket manufacturer. I put the old one and the new one side by side and they were identical (of course, the handle wasn't broken off on the new one!). I coulnd't be happier. It arrived at my house 2 days after I ordered it. I highly recommend Parts Select.
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dryer drum wouldn't turn
36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Peachtree City, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure ou t you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!
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Dryer door cable broken
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Rochester Hills, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges. ... Read more />
4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
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The rear drum seal was worn and causing streaks on clothes
36 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Parker, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I new that the drum would need to be removed to perform the seal replacements but it didn't look that difficult. Sure enough, it was a piece of cake. The whole process of installation took less than one hour to complete. The saving to repair vs. replacement of the dryer amounted to the equivilant of 4 - 5 rounds of golf. Yes I would do it again!
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replaced heating element in my dryer
38 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marlene from Indianapolis, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to do the repair myself. Happily, I was able to and my dryer works like new ! I figure I probably saved about a 100 bucks doing it myself rather than calling out a repair man. Oh, did I mention I am female and didn't have to have a man do this for me. :)
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The dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes.
37 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lauren from Mckinney, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
After my husband disassembled the cabinet and removed the drum, we used a putty knife to remove the old seal and carefully glued the new one in place. (A 2 man job to do it without leaking glue everywhere.) We then replaced the belt, following the picture sent by PartSelect and put everything back. (We put all small pieces in labeled enve lopes so that putting it back together was easy.) Another helpful hint - take a few digital pictures beforehand in the event that you need to see it to put it back together!
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Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.
39 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rod from Galveston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then rep lace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou
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dryer works but no heat.
35 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Grove, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Measured resistance on thermostats & heating element. Found thermostat open so ordered replacement part and heat again.
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All Instructions for the 110963
46 - 60 of 2435