110894 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110894
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The dryer stopped working and would not start.
20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • kevin from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
After unplugging the dryer, I removed the bottom panel in front. Remove the the filter inside the dryer and remove the filter housing below. There you can see the thermal fuse on the air duct, its white with two blue wires. You can check it with a ohmmeter after removing the wires. If its open its bad. Its held in place with two sheet met al screws. After replacing the thermal fuse the dryer worked fine. However I would suggest cleaning the air duct and the outside discharge opening. Hope this helps.
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No Heat, no ignition in burner
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Santa Maria, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circu it using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE
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Would not heat sometimes
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
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Heat Would Not Come On
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lynn from Novi, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lo t of time and money if I had read that earlier.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Temperature setting not working
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Buffalo, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
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Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • L R from Carmel, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with th e new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
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dryer worked but no heat
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tracie from Culver City, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.
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Drum was binding because of worn bearing supporting front of dryer drum
23 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Townsend, GA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to gl ue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!
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The Dryer would not start
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Redondo Beach, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First and most important was to unplug the unit.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading do or and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.
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Washer will agitate, but won't spin
18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
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One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Xiaobin from Cordova, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.
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Door catch on dryer door broke
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lynne from Jamestown, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might c ontact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.
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drum stopped turning
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Gerber, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt. Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.
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Time clock not moving .Not enough heat
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PHILIP from LONG ISLAND CITY, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
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All Instructions for the 110894
46 - 60 of 949