1108639 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1108639
106 - 120 of 957

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Front seal was ripped.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neil from Southgate, MI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the fron t panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
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Heating element was toast
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from CHURCH POINT, LA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Undid the back, remove wires going to element, unscrew lint trap, pop the top and undid the nut-screw holding the element housing. pulled out the bad element and did everything in reverse with the new element... unplug it first though because I left that step out.
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dryer would not turn on
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Bethpage, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Found the switch part on the floor and after I figured out where it came from it was minutes before it took to find the web site and order the part, I then watched the installation video which helped with a few pointers and days later it was installed and fixed for 10 dollars with shipping,AMAZING!!!
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Two cycles to dry clothes
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Lebanon, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. I lifted the top of the dryer for easy access to the screw that held the Heater Box. Removed the Heater box, unbolted the heating element, pulled the old one out put the new one in the reversed the process.

I ordered the part Saturday, had it by Tuesday.
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Broken drum belt
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Fort Myers BEach, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, t he belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.
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Broken drive belt
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stanley from Flushing, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I received the part I ordered immediately and the included instructions made installation a snap. Thank you for your help. I would not hesitate to order from your company again.
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drum roller became lose and seperated from the shaft that supports it. it had to be replaced
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dillard C. from Vina, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse
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a loud, high-pitched ringing noise
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Booneville, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
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Heating unit burned out.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Osceola, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.
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Frig stopped cooling - Freezer side iced up
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter R from Gainesville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrost ing properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!
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Lint Filter wore out had to be replace
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Dayton, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Changed out the lint filter
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broken handle
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from New Bedford, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
1) removed the old broken filter
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!
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small dark lines appearing on clothes
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Ankeny, IA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Like others have descibed, place Dryer on back and remove two hex head screws on back two phillips screws under lint cover, front is "clamped" with two plastic clips that I popped with a standard screwdriver. The door has two screws on the door switch, I removed these although I'm not sure I needed to. Lift the front out of the way. Look at the belt before you remove it, the tensioner pully isn't screwed in place and drops once the belt is removed. It isn't hard to figure out how it goes back together, but you might as well save the swearing. Remove the belt and the drum lifts out. Remove the old seal and glue the new one in place. Another repair suggested clothes pins to hold the seal while it dried, but I opted for some spring clamps with a little more grip. While the seal dries vaccuum the inside of the dryer and vent pipe clean everthing up good by the time you're done the glue is dry. Put the drum back in using a putty knife to slip the seal in place. re assemble in reverse order of disassembly. If I were doing this repair again I would have bought the front seal too. It doesn't appear to get as much wear as the back, but while you have it open why not? Repair easier than expected, but took more time with the cleaning and glue dry time.
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Clothes took multiple cycles to fully dry.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Pine City, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.
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Dryer makes squealing noise, finally the motor seized up.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from PITTSTON, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.
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All Instructions for the 1108639
106 - 120 of 957