110773 Kenmore - Instructions

I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

I spent nearly an hour trying to self-diagnose the problem before I wised up and found PartSelect.com. After reading just a couple of postings I went back and tested the thermal fuse. It was bad. Other posts suggested I replace the thermostat at the same time, so I ordered both. The parts arrived within three days and the actual repai ... Read more r took less than 10 minutes.

Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I or ... Read more dered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Disconnect unit and remove from under counter. remove lower spray arm, tip over dishwasher on it's back, diconnect wires from motor , unscrew drain fitting rotate motor mounts to and lift pump and motor assembly up and out from inside the dishwasher. thoughly clean all parts during pump disassembly( under running water and a toothbrush ... Read more works well) . Looking at a parts diagram,and using your memory from disassembly replace the new seals and put it all back together, with patience you can do anything and use common sense.

I removed the screw holding the spray arm to the bracket. I then put on the new bracket and tightened the screw. The bracket just clips on to the top basket of the washer. Easy as pie.

Ordered both drain & wash impeller kit and the drain check valve with o-ring. Decided to test the cheaper drain check valve first. Pulled dishwasher out from wall & adjacent cabinetry; removed drain hose from disposer and drained as much water as possible; "jacked" side of dishwasher to gain access to drain hose and drain check valve; us ... Read more ed pliers to remove hose clamp; placed flat pan underneath to catch remaining water drainage; unscrewed drain check valve; tested under bathroom faucet--determined faulty; replaced with the new one, restored connections, reset dishwasher in proper location; voila--fixed! Plan to return the unneeded impeller kit.

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall ... Read more when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

I noticed the upper bushing washer was worn thin. this caused the lower spray arm to rise too high and wobble during all the wash cycles. Also the rotation of the lower spray arm was wearing grooves in the lower bushing.

I removed the retaining nut and simply replaced teh defective parts. While I was at it I figured equal w ... Read more ear might be evident on the upper spray arm so I bought a complete rebuild kit to bring all rotational parts back to new and equal preformance that was achieved by removing the ss screw and removing the upper spray arm, bushing and clip then replacing them in the order of removal. Noticed a huge difference in the quality of the washed dishes!! Thanks Parts Select 100% to yoru company!!

Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top ... Read more are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

Turned off the power.Pulled the dryer out, removed the screws from the control cover panel, unplugged the switch, pressed the release clip the did the opposite to install new switch. Replaced the back panel, put the nob on and it looks as good as new.Turned on the power.

This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door ... Read more was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 ... Read more year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.

The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thou ... Read more ght perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.

couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! ... Read more Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!

1st Unpluged power.
2nd removed two screws under lint screen cover.
3rd poped up lid with flathead screwdryer, then removed (2) 5/16 screws from door cover and unpluged lid switch, lifted up dryer door pannel
4th removed drum
5th took out plastic triangle wheel rings
6th removed old belt guild (to motor pully)
... Read more />7th removed old wheels and plastic rings stops
8th cleaned excessive hair dust with shopvac
9th put new replaicment part in dryer. made sure to turn manually to make sure belt was lined up properly, then put all dryer peices back.
10th aditional work, took back cover off and removed the (4) 1/4 screws for lint screen case (left side in dryer) vacumed out any excessive dirt lint ect, also cleaned any excessive dust I found in back of dryer, dryer , exhaust ect, and put all back together.
JUst like a new dryer aain after all PM was complete.