11066132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed old seal and replaced with new one. Save yourself time and get some acetone to remove old glue works great!

Kill power to dryer from breaker box.Remove lint filter & 2 screws. Take a flat head screw driver and place in gap between rash from corner of top panel & front panel of dryer and pry up to raise top panel of dryer & rest against wall the wall on angle do it doesn’t fall back toward you. Unplug wiring harness from dryer switch inside top front corner of dryer with outside of drum exposed when top panel of dryer is raised. Open dryer door and remove screws on each side of dryer switch located at upper inside corner of door opening. Take flat head screwdriver had slide in between connector & wiring harness on dryer. Remove old switch. Reconnect new dryer switch to wiring harness & remount switch to inside of dryer door opening. Lower top panel of dryer & press front corners of top panel to front panel of dryer & clips will be locked in place. Replace screws in dryer filter mounting holes yo top panel & replace dryer filter in place. Turn on power ‘ & check if light is working 1st. Then, turn timer knob clockwise, close door and listen if the drum is turning. Open door to see if drum turns. If both work, the job is complete.

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

After getting the part and sizing up what to do. I removed the 6 1/4 hex nuts from the back. I removed the 2 hinge nuts 3/8 and popped the lid of the dryer up. It wasn't coming up all the way. I removed the lint filter and removed the two #1 Phillips screws that held the lid to the duct and it came up easy.The switch itself was clipped together and came apart with ease. 2 #1 Phillips screws held the switch in place and quickly tightened down the new switch. I clipped the new switch to the old lead and just reversed the order putting it back together. The light worked and the drum stopped when the door was opened during the cycle. The part matched perfectly and there was no guess work about clearance. It was an easy repair.

Determined that the door switch was not making contact. Removed the lint screen, removed two screws in the lint screen housing, pulled the top of the dryer up at the front of the dryer. This provided access to the door switch which was mounted on top.

The brightness of the light was because the door switch was allowing too much current to the light bulb when the door was open but the switch would not swich the current to the dryer motor when the door was closed. After a day or so of this bright light it burned out. I removed the two screws on top that hold the lint trap in place then I could access the switch by sliding the top of the dryer forward and lifting the it as you would lift the hood of a car. The switch is on the right side and plugs into a three wire connector and only fits in one way. Cheap and easy fix after unplugging the dryer from the wall power outlet.

Plugged in the switch, put in (2) screws and finished.

We had been sticking part of a clothespin in the door for a few months, My husband looked up the assembly on line and we decided we were going to go for it. We probably saved a pretty pricey service call. The back panel had to come off, the two screws holding the lint trap, and lift up the top of the dryer. I think the hardest part was actually getting the old part off without snapping it. All and all my husband and I were very happy with ourselves.

First you disconnect electricty then gently pry up the top of dryer with a flat screwdriver. You will find a three wire plug unplug wire and take the two phillip screws our of the switch lift our the switch and reverse the prossess to reinstall new switch

Very simple remove door pull off old seal, apply small amount of adhesive around seal seat. Install seal to door let cure for several hours over night is best

Installed new door switch, so, so simple. Unplug dryer, remove lint screen, undo 2 scews located at base of lint screen opening. Use flat head screw driver to pry up dryer top, once open, rest the top against the wall. Now you will see the door switch in the right hand corner at front of the dryer.Open the dryer door , remove 2 screws holding the broken switch, disconnect wire from dryer, click in the new switch, put everything back together, plug in the dryer and go! Super quick and easy, wish I had just done this months ago!!!!

I thought I had checked the arm piece of the rack real good for a product number on my original part but I missed the number till the 2nd box came in, and a looked real careful and realized it was the same as the order I thought was bad.
Put the spring arm in first and the rack will fit in the front groove.
It would have been good if there had been a picture of the dryer arm attached to the dryer.
So I have 2 good racks and will return one if you tell me where to send it.
Keith Walden..

I removed the part located on the dryer at the top of the door area. I installed the new part with the two screws I removed and BAZINGA...it all worked again. Very pleased!