1106510 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1106510
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Dryer motor runs, but no heat
2308 of 2510 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gadi from Irvine, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.

To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.

You can check the heating element wi th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.

Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..

Good luck.
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No Heat
903 of 969 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vernon from Niceville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off.
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Dryer would run with no heat.
731 of 766 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Remie from Mahopac, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The repair was easy. the most time consuming part was vacuuming the dust from the back of the Dryer, The repair required removing screw from the back panel of the dryer. Then removing screws from the heating element and unplugging the wires. The only moderately diffculy part was swapping the sensor form the old element.
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Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
676 of 740 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
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Dryer would take forever to dry clothes, even on high setting
654 of 837 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Indianapolis, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I ordered all the thermal sensors for the dryer. They arrived two days later and they were the correct parts. It took me about 1/2 hour to replace all three sensors and now the dryer works like new again. My wife was very pleased, so was I.
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No heat for dryer
497 of 521 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Moved dryer from wall,disconnected power. Unscrewed the 12+ sheet metal screws holding on the back cover. Located heating element, remover it's two sheet metal screws and pulled down on the element to remove. Disconnected the two electrical leads from element and went to the top of Dryer. Do not remiember if told to remove the temptur e kill button was easy to see that it was needed on new element. Moved high tempeture senson to new element. Reversed steps to install new element. Replaced back cover, pluged in and powered up. Works like a champ. Thanks for the price on the part and the video which started me on the right track. I'll be back !!
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heating coil was'nt heating up and after i change the coil realize the little thermal regulator had to also be change.
453 of 483 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rube from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench set
I basically took the back offo the drive, then detach
the heating coil. Afterwards had to go back in and
change the thermal regulator an the job was completed.
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No heat for dryer
345 of 424 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dustin from Star, ID
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I first disconnected the power. Then, I took off the back panel with about 8-10 screws. There were a couple of screws that held the heating element in place, which I removed. Then, I disconnected the heating element. The heating element was toward the bottom right hand side and was easily accessible. The connections to the heating element were a little bit tough to disconnect but not too bad. I had to use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry them off but looking back I think some needlenose pliers would have worked better. I then removed the bad heating element and plugged in the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned the dryer back on. It blew hot air again and all was well. I am not very mechanical and it was all pretty easy.
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no heat
232 of 288 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christopher from dublin, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took a couple differant parts to fix the dryer. i ordered one part at a time. i was expecting to wait the 5 days for shipping but i got home from work the next day of odering parts and they were there waiting for me on my doorstep. all three times i ordered. this website is the best site to order parts. i wont go to another website or sto re if i need to order parts for appliances. u guys have my business for life. thumbs up.
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Heat in dryer very low, would take an hour and half to dry a load
181 of 197 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Parker, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I called an appliance repair place. They charged me $40 to come out and said "the air vent might be clogged". I snaked it out and really wasn't anything in there. So I started thinking it might be a thermostat. After reading the reviews that others posted here, I said, "how hard can it be"? Thanks to PartsSelect putting a diagra m (schematic) of the parts, I could see what I was looking for when I removed the back panel. So I took my nutdrivers out, disconnected the vent hose and removed the 10 or so nuts off the back panel & got it out of the way. Took out the vacuum cleaner and sucked all the lint out. Removed the housing where the heating element was and marked on both thermostats and housing where each wires went. As cheap as PartsSelect had the thermostats priced, I figured why not remove the guesswork by buying the highlimit and cycling thermostats and a new heating element too. One screw in each thermostat and out they came. Swapped wires with new thermostats and put them back. With the heating element...it was all one piece, so no fighting to get the element into an old housing. Just swapped them. Put the back panel on and reconnected the vent hose. Cost to repair: about $100. Time for parts to get to me: 2 days. Time to install new parts: about 10 minutes. Knowing that I have a dryer that runs like new AND saving a TON of money on electric bill....THAT is priceless. Thanks PartsSelect!
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Door wouldn't latch.
204 of 285 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melody from North Las Vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!
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Dryer runs but no heat
191 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Roswell, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
unpluged the dryer, removed the back panel, I examined the heating coil, it seemed unbroken, so I used a amp meter to test the various sensors. Found the upper thermal sensor was bad, looked up the part and ordered it, had to get the thermal cut off kit to get the sensor I needed. Installed it no problem, put the back back on, and it work ed great.
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Heating element burned out.
134 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Coleen from Chillicothe, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing an d back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!
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dryer door would not stay shut
103 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pam from Woodbridge, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.
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door switch actuator spring broken
92 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Vero Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located o n upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife
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All Instructions for the 1106510
1 - 15 of 911