11024924202 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11024924202
106 - 120 of 1280

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Broken Fabric Softener Dispenser
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOAN from Little Elm, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just removed the broken part and replace it with the new one.
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Fabric Softener dispenser was broken
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Lufkin, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replacing the fabric softener dispenser was very easy. It just snaps on. Make sure you line up the tabs with the holes in the agitator, otherwise it will not stay on and will fly off and break in the spin-cycle. This is how the first one broke to begin with.
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top agitator would not operate
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Edgewood, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.
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Agitator not working
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • kevin from oxford, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench set
Removed cap, used a wrench to remove nut for agitator, put new one in place put nut back on and the cap back on and started washing clothes easy fix saved me $300.00 Thank you
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Lid Switch Screw Mounts Broke
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Compton, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had to unscrew 2 screws that held the control panel, then remove the 2 end caps, remove 2 screws that held the control panel to the washing machine. I then lifted the control panel and leaned the lower case forward. All this to get access to the ground screw for the lid mount. It sounds like a lot, but actually it was quite simple. I re placed the old switch with a new one and put everything back together just like new. No extra screws or parts that I could not remember where they came from. Thanks Parts Select. Reading the comments from others helped me to realize that I could do the work without worry. The only problem I had was ordering the correct part. That did not happen until I got the correct part number from the old part.
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Ground prong on power cord was broken
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RONALD from PORT ORCHARD, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.
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washer not draining
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • maria from san Marcos, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
but switch fixed
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Lid trigger went and fried both plug and connector
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • barbara from MILLVILLE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.
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Water level switch was continuously satisfied, washer would not fill, and would go into agitation immediately.
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shirley from Council Bluffs, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the screws holding the control panel onto the washer. Removed the switch knob and then the switch (required unlocking a tab and then rotating the switch to remove). Unplugged the wiring connector and the water sensing tube. Replaced the switch in the reverse order and remounted the control panel. Test run proved the washer was w orking again.
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The middle tub would not come out
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jayanti from SNELLVILLE, GA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
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Washer would not work in agitate or spin cycle
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • yesenia from apopka, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off wit hout unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.
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washer wouldn't spin with load, then not at all with rapid clicking sound
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lou from ATLANTIC HLDS, NJ
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Clutch was noticibly worn compared to new part. Direct drive flange had broken, this part should be steel. found a you tube video that was simple to follow. no problems
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Washer not agitating
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Erie, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I looked for a youtube video on how to repair the lid switch. The video was very good but was filmed in a perfect world. My washer sits in a somewhat confined area so getting the outside skin put back perfectly was a bit tricky.
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washer wouldn't go into spin cycle
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from Lester Prairie, MN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, countercloc kwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.

I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.

Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.

During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.

Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".

I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.
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broken lid switch
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Stuart, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I unplugged the machine.
Removed the back panel.
Located the switch, removing it and then following the wire to the plug, unplugging it.
replaced with new switch, plugged it in and replaced the back panel.
Removing and putting the back panel back was the hardest part.
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All Instructions for the 11024924202
106 - 120 of 1280