1100PRA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

remove racks out of the oven. remove very bottom of oven and you will then have access to the ignitor.the part was a little difficult to remove due to the self tapping screws snapping upon removal.drilled them out and installed new ignitor.oven now works fantastic.

removed door (pull up and out), removed all racks and bottom of oven, removed two screws holding old igniter, unplugged old igniter from harness, mounted new igniter using two screws and nuts purchased from local hardware store, plugged new igniter into harness, replaced bottom of oven and trays, slid oven door down over hinges. Oven works properly. Thanx!

A very common problem for ovens not heating up is the oven igniter going bad. Depending on how much you use your oven, they only last about 5 years. It is easy to replace, but getting it off can be a little tricky since the screws are exposed to so much heat. Once you got it off, you can unclip the old one and clip the new one right in. Then bolt it back on, throw in the racks and shelves, and start cooking. I replaced the igniter twice, the temperature sensor once, and the control panel once.

Our oven failed to cook in the Bake mode. I was thinking I needed to have a repairman come service it. I got the product manual & begin to do some research. I thought the problem was was in the control panel until a parts search took me to the Parts Select website where I read the other successful repair stories & the most likely reason it did not work. It was real simple. The only problem I had was a screw that held the ignitor stripped & I had to cut the head off. The directions sent with the part were dead on. I then simply installed new ignitor & presto - it works! My wire connection required stripping the wires & using the ceramic wirenuts. I am glad I found Part Select & will call again when needed!! Thanks !!

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

My oven would no longer ignite, and I asked a friend to help me see if we could fix it. We found an appliance repair manual online (www.appliancerepair.net), and it described that the most likely part needing replacement was the ceramic igniter - they do wear out, and my oven was - after all - over 20 yrs old, with never a repair! Then, somehow I found this PartSelect website, and after entering the make and model number, it showed the part, with a drawing, and dimensions - enough for me to be convinced it was the right part. I called and was reassured that if it were not the right part, it would be easy to return / refund. So, I ordered the part, standard shipping .... and to my great surprise, it was delivered the VERY NEXT DAY to my front door! And this was right before Christmas, a very busy time! The oven works like a charm now..... (I also had to clean out some of the gas holes, which can build up residues over time.) This repair cost less than $50, I'm sure if an appliance repair person came out it would have been more like $200 - not worth it for an oven this old. So, I'm happy with PartSelect!

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

installed new control unit had to use the old dial so it would match . Toughest part is the cleaning! needed it.

put it on, perfect

removed inside trays and grill inside large oven door on front to get to ignitor,removed ignitor with 1/4 drive socket,followed the wires off the ignitor thru the hole in back of oven and disconnected the connector,put on in reverse order.To simple to even write about,anyone can look at it and tell what needs to be done

look up part, read the diognosis, order part, watch repair vidioe, order part, install mystelf. success!

it was really simple with the kit and instructions that came with the kit everything i needed was in the kit, and hats off to you guys

followed video took 10 minutes, almost went anf bought a new stove