1100 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Water was leaking at the pump
17 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Painesville, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Actually this is kinda funny. I ordered the part and it arrived when I was out of town on business. My 20 year old daughter tipped the washer up on its end, and replaced the pump herself in less than 30 minutes. Her only complaint was that no one told her to block the washer up as it almost fell on her.
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Washing machine leaking water
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Oklahoma City, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
First, I'm glad I found PartSelect. The previous posts for this repair told me exactly how to replace the pump: I unplugged the washer and moved it out away from the wall (did not need to disconnect water hoses). Then I tilted the washer back and propped it up so I could get underneath. Using pliers, slid hose clamps back and disconne
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cted hoses from pump. Using a screwdriver, popped off two clips, top and bottom, that hold the pump in place. Pump then slides right off the shaft. Installation is the reverse. Make sure you align the shaft with the pump. Delivery of my part was FAST - ordered it and got it the next day!
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Leaking drain hose
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Cypress, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers
First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.
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Gas oven took longer and longer to light off even though glow igniter was glowing. When the time grew to 10 minutes and more I knew a repair was needed.
15 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from West Hartford, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to g
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et behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.
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Door catch on dryer door broke
14 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lynne from Jamestown, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might c
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ontact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.
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drum stopped turning
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Gerber, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt.
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Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.
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leaking drain pump. Obviously a common problem with this washer
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Solana Beach, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Just turned the washer on its side, popped out the two retainer clips with pliers and screwdriver, pulled the pump out by hand, put the new one in and replaced one rusty clip with the new one from parts select, and used the other old one. I ordered the parts on Monday, and they came tuesday, even with the standard shipping. Also the we
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bsite parts diagram and whole website design is good.
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Other Parts Used:
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Washmachine wouldn't spindry
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chuck from South Holland, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.
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my cold water did not run in the machine and it would not rinse
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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TONYA from DISTRICT HEIGHTS, MD
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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No cold water supply/slow cold water fill
14 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Andrew from Virginia Beach, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs a
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nd moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.
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Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marsha from Concord, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
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Washer worked fine but wouldn't spin. Hot smell. I could turn tub by hand to help it get started and it would spin okay. Silver clutch cover was very hot to touch.
17 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kevin from Disputanta, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's
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lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.
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Water Inlet Valve
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ron from Hibbing, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water ... Read more for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water ... Read more for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.
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water leaking from pump
15 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from westmoreland city, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the clips. Pulled out the old pump. After trying to get the new pump on the shaft of the motor, I realized that some corrosion had built up on the motor shaft. I got a small tack hammer and very lightly tapped the shaft to remove the corrosion. The pump then slid on the shaft with no problem. Replaced clips. Job complete.
Th ... Read more e corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.
Th ... Read more e corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.
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Washer would not Agitate or spin out. Also noticed an oil leak.
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jonathan from BRANDON, VT
- Really Easy
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed instructions provided from Parts Select for removing and replacing the coupler assembly, and also instructions for changing the clutch assembly. I also took it's transmission apart (socket set and flat screwdriver required), drained the old oil, cleaned it, added new 90W gear oil. The instructions covered the swapping of parts
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very well. Cleaning up the oil spill took as long as changing the parts.
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