10686399310 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.