1067640621 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

First the small screws you sent did not fit.I had to cut and mend the old ones (2) to use them.I did purchase a connecting valve tha I used to connect the part of tubing (my name for it) from old one to new one.I was surprides it is working fine.Not bad for a nurse!

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Pulled the fridge (KitchenAid side by side) out from the wall for the 1st time in a few years and dealt with those issues. Followed the instructions which were pretty clear. I was lucky enough that I did not need to retro fit any of the connections - it was really a straight forward replacement. The ice maker and the water dispenser have never worked better. Took about an hour.

I guessed that the water dispenser solenoid was getting weak.
A quick web search led me to PartSelect's website where it was so easy to pull up my refrigerator model with diagrams. I ordered the valve kit, and in 5 days it was in my hands.

Installation was literally 10 minutes. It took longer than that to vacuum all the dust from under and in back of my refrigerator !

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I Have a Sub Zero refrigerator, but has a Wirlpool ice maker. The ice maker has been repaired 4 times in 2009!!! A complete new ice maker one time! The repair man repaced the double outlet valve three times in 4 months. Then they had to but in a in line water filter. This solved the problem for six months. I thought the water filter would last at lease a year. It will now be changed every six months. For some reason I get minor amounts of dirt,in my water. If a small speck gets to the double outlet valve it causes it to "weep" and the tube that fills the ice tray freezes up. Since I have watched so many times as my ice maker was repaired, it was easy to diconnect the faulty valve with 1/4 inch wrench and the water filter. Replace with the new valve and water filter. Make sure the connections are tite. Turn the water back on and in 24 hours you have ice.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!