Product Description
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper Specifications
This part mounts in the ice dispenser. The crank no longer comes with this part but you can use original crank. The crank is sold separately depending on the model number of your appliance.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Door Sweating | Ice maker won’t dispense ice | Frost buildup | Leaking
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.
Part# WR17X11653 replaces these:
AP3672582, 1032671, WR17X11653, WR17X3093, WR17X3492
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David M - October 15, 2019
Verified Purchase
fits exactly
Great part -FAST shipping
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 72 reviews.
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Our Ice Damper was warped, which let warm air into the freezer and caused frost to form. Also, our ice and water dispensers stopped working.
Swapping out the ice dispenser damper door was pretty easy- just used a combination of screwdrivers to remove the dispenser assembly, popped the old damper off, put the new damper on. Replacing the control board was only a bit more complicated- unplugged the fridge, removed the control board metal cover (beware the somewhat sharp edges), unhooked all the cables from the board, used needle-nose pliers to pinch each plastic spacer/fastener as to not damage them while removing the old board, mounted the new board where the old board was, and plugged in all the cables (they were all different enough from each other that I didn't have any trouble figuring out where they were supposed to connect). I now have my fridge plugged into a surge protector- hopefully that will protect this new board I've installed. Thanks a bunch,PartSelect.
Other Parts Used:
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ALBERT from RALEIGH, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
333 of 410 people
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Flapper Door Stuck Open Allowing Ice Tube To Frost Shut
I read in a previous post how to do the job from outside fridge which saved me lots of time. No need to remove inner door lining. Here is my procedure:
1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.
1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.
Other Parts Used:
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Joe from Maryville, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
165 of 221 people
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Ice Chute Flapper not closing causing water dripping to floor and ice chute freezing up solid
I followed the video instructions for replacing the Flapper Valve and solenoid that Part Select suggested. It was one of the best DIY Reapair Sites I've used. Thank you
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James from Malabar, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
132 of 182 people
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Ice door would not open far enough, ice would get stuck in chute
First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugged into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
Other Parts Used:
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ERIC from MADISON, AL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
73 of 133 people
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Recessed door on ice dispenser would stay open causing the freezer to frost up
I inserted the tip of a very small screwdriver from a eye glass repair kit into the three small holes under the panel near where the ice is dispensed. I never would have known about this simple procedure if it wasn't for the feedback you post from your parts cumtomers. Once I did this the front panel with the buttons on it poped off and it was just a matter of removing a few screws at that point. The wires from the new solenoid easily plugged into the board on the front panel. I would recommend changing the screws at the same time. The old one's worked but they were rusty. I feel the solenoid was my only problem but I changed all the parts in between the dispenser door and the solenoid just to be sure.
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Turcotte's Housing Service, In from Newmarket, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
70 of 92 people
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Ice buildup in the door of freezer
Pulled the ice/water control panel off using the three holes under the lip. Pops off pretty easy. Next came 4 screws holding the chute for the ice. Two bottom screws were very rusty, top two look brand new. Watch the wires. Replace the solenoid assembly by unplugging wires leading to the board, then removed the plunger over the top of the hook on the far right. Went ahead and replaced the dispenser door assembly or flapper. Plugged refridge back in and pressed the ice dispenser handle and listened for the solenoid to cycle. Perfect. There is a little delay before you hear the flapper fall into place. Saving rest of parts just in case they are needed next time.Thanks to everyone who wrote in to show how easy it would be. No telling how much a repairman would have charged me.
Other Parts Used:
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Walt from Alabaster, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
66 of 88 people
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Ice cube production stopped; ice cube chute door is seized.
Problem: I have a black colored GE 24.9 cubic inch side-by-side refrigerator, model #GSH25KGMCBB that I purchased new in 2002. The ice cube maker stopped supplying ice cubes and the ice dispenser door stopped operating.
Repair: Unplugged refrigerator first and shut off the house water supply valve. Removed the lower rear access cover and replaced the double solenoid water valve. Icemaker and water dispenser tubing are easily removed by pushing in and holding down the white plastic collar where the tubing is inserted into each port on the valve body; no tools required to release the tubing. Hint: When reconnecting the water outlet tubing, ensure the tube diameter matches the port on the valve body. Insert each tube by hand back into the ports of the valve until they firmly seated.
Removed the control panel by inserting a small screwdriver into the three holes located on the bottom of the control panel body. Removed all of the ice dispenser door hardware and the door solenoid. The door solenoid armature was seized by corrosion. Cleaned off all of the accumulated dirt and mold with a 1:10 ratio solution of bleach and water. Replaced all of the door recess and solenoid valve fasteners with my own stainless steel #4-40 thread, 0.25" long socket head screws for longer life. The installation of the remaining hardware is the reverse of how it was removed.
The installation looks very clean now and $150 later, the ice maker still doesn't produce ice!
Root-cause analysis: I disconnected the ice cube maker water supply line from the double solenoid valve at the rear of the refrigerator and was able to blow air with my mouth straight through the outlet of the water tubing located inside of the freezer compartment; to ensure it wasn't blocked. Verified the water supply valve is not being energized! Turns out that the blinking green LED indicator on the ice cube maker is indicating more than the troubleshooting guide does about that because the white colored insulated conductor in the electrical harness for the ice cube maker is not energizing the solenoid on the water supply valve!
Conclusion: the ice cube maker assembly is next on the list of replacement parts!!
Repair: Unplugged refrigerator first and shut off the house water supply valve. Removed the lower rear access cover and replaced the double solenoid water valve. Icemaker and water dispenser tubing are easily removed by pushing in and holding down the white plastic collar where the tubing is inserted into each port on the valve body; no tools required to release the tubing. Hint: When reconnecting the water outlet tubing, ensure the tube diameter matches the port on the valve body. Insert each tube by hand back into the ports of the valve until they firmly seated.
Removed the control panel by inserting a small screwdriver into the three holes located on the bottom of the control panel body. Removed all of the ice dispenser door hardware and the door solenoid. The door solenoid armature was seized by corrosion. Cleaned off all of the accumulated dirt and mold with a 1:10 ratio solution of bleach and water. Replaced all of the door recess and solenoid valve fasteners with my own stainless steel #4-40 thread, 0.25" long socket head screws for longer life. The installation of the remaining hardware is the reverse of how it was removed.
The installation looks very clean now and $150 later, the ice maker still doesn't produce ice!
Root-cause analysis: I disconnected the ice cube maker water supply line from the double solenoid valve at the rear of the refrigerator and was able to blow air with my mouth straight through the outlet of the water tubing located inside of the freezer compartment; to ensure it wasn't blocked. Verified the water supply valve is not being energized! Turns out that the blinking green LED indicator on the ice cube maker is indicating more than the troubleshooting guide does about that because the white colored insulated conductor in the electrical harness for the ice cube maker is not energizing the solenoid on the water supply valve!
Conclusion: the ice cube maker assembly is next on the list of replacement parts!!
Other Parts Used:
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Bruce from Mebane, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
41 of 59 people
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The compartment behind control panel with snow
I have unlock the black panel. With a screw driver I have removed 2 screws and removed 3 conectors from circuit board. So, I had access to solenoid set. From this point on was intuitive. Very easy.
I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.
I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.
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Victor from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
40 of 61 people
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Frost in ice chut, flapper hanging partially open.
Removed control panel, snapped out pretty easy. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). My spring was broke but it ended up being the solenoid assembly after I replaced the spring, door crank, micro switch and flapper it was obvious the solenoid was hanging up. I had to go back an order it but it was at my door 2nd day (quickly). I took the time to clean the area with Tylex (some mold), and everything went in easily. I didn't really need the new flapper, crank, and micro switch but they were fairly cheap and then all is new. We use our ice dispenser a great deal so I didn't want to have to go back in and fix a part I "should have" replaced. I used Part Select for my washer motor as well. Doing both repairs myself probably saved 3 or 4 hundred dollars easily.
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John from Oxford, IA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
36 of 74 people
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ice despenser door would stick open and frost up to the point of of ice not coming out
after finding the video describing the same problem, i gave it a shot. Major problem was figuring out how to take outside trim off of the ice/water dispenser. Everything i tried did not work like the videos i had seen. Looking thru some of the posted blogs i found another way to get behind the control panel without even taking off the trim piece. i pressed a 1/8th allen wrench into the two outer holes on the bottom of the control panel which released the panel to pull out from the bottom. after that it was simple to release the three plugs from the circuit board and remove the control panel. 4 phi lips screws later the ice chute comes straight out revealing the flapper door which is held in by 2 more screws. once that assembly is out the solenoid is held by three more screws. there was nothing difficult at all about this repair once the secret was out about the first step about the three holes (use only the outer two) in the bottom of the control panel
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joe from raleigh, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
35 of 47 people
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Diane
November 6, 2017
My ice dispenser opening keeps freezing up, after watching your video on replacing the flap i discovered that the flap on mine does not close, i can only assume that's the problem. What i need to know now is replacing the flap going to fix the problem or do i need to replace what closes the flap
For model number TFX25KRCBWW
Hi Diane,
Thank you for your question. That flap seals your freezer from the outside. The only thing I can think of is because it is not sealing, moisture is getting in from the outside and freezing around your opening. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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MARY
January 9, 2019
Ice builds up in the chute and the ice cubes cannot fall through,, resulting in the whole chute becoming frozen solid. Is this the part that needs to be replaced to keep the warm air from entering from the outside and causing this problem?
For model number GSS25tSRESS
Hello Mary, thank you for your question. Yes, this is one of the first parts we would recommend replacing. Warm air is getting up inside the dispenser and frosting and freezing. You may also want to replace the Dispenser Door Recess Crank Part Number: PS291908 and Recess Door Spring Part Number: PS285013 at the same time. Good luck with your repair!
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Brian
October 1, 2017
I'm getting freezing inside the shoot of my ice maker and by the ice maker dispenser. I order a new flapper.I also have inconsistent dripping coming from where the water comes out.If I dispense more water it will stop.I don't believe this has to do with the faulty flapper because it comes out the white tube. What could the issue be?
For model number GSH25KGMDBB
Hi Brian, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Dual Inlet Water Valve,PartSelect Number: PS304374.If the valve is defective it will become "stuck" open and allow water to flow through creating the dripping.It can also cause the water to sit in the tubing and cause the freezing. Hope this helps!
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John
December 12, 2018
My flapper stays open about one inch, i can push it closed, could my problem be the spring that should close it?
For model number GSHF5KGXECWW
Hello John, Thank you for the question. It is possible the flapper is warped or damaged as well. I suggest taking the flapper, spring and crank out to check for damage. Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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Debbie
August 30, 2017
If i replace the ice flapper since it will not close would i need any other parts
For model number GSS25WSTASS
Hi Debbie,
Thank you for your inquiry. The cranker no longer comes with this part. You can use the original crank from the old part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Clifton
August 15, 2017
I changed the water valve, but still no water dispensing. The ices works for both crush and cube when i select dispense. Only the water still will not come out. I tried to see if the water gets to the connector at the bottom of the door and it dose. But no water will dispense from the outlet in the door.
For model number GSH25JSRFSS
Hello Clifton, thank you for contacting us. That sounds like you may need a new water filter, they can become clogged and prevent water from passing through. The part number for the water filter is PS8746144 you may also need the adapter if you have not changed it before, part number PS220347. Hope this helps!
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Fran
October 1, 2017
Do you have a help video and if so where do i fine it
Hello Fran, thank you for contacting us. There is a how to video just under the image of the part. You can follow the link below, good luck with the repair!
https://www.partselect.com/PS964304-GE-WR17X11653-Dispenser-Door-Assembly-or-Flapper.htm#RepairVideo
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Bob
February 21, 2020
The ice flapper is not closing fully. Are there parts i need to replace to close the flapper or what could be causing this? I can reach up and push the flapper to a closed position. I cannot see if it is in fact fully closed with no air leakis
For model number PS123SGRBSV
Hello, Thank you for your question. You will need to replace the flapper- PartSelect Number: PS964304. We hope this helps.
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Tim
October 16, 2019
I ordered a ice dispenser door and realized the existing door was just stuck in the open position. How can i get it to open and close normally? Or why doesn’t it close?
For model number TBX22pbr
Hello Tim, thank you for your question. If the flapper door isn't opening and closing properly, the issue is most likely the dispenser door solenoid PartSelect Number PS304961. Good luck with your repair!
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Ron
April 20, 2023
I replaced the freezer flap and spring and when i put it back together, the ice and water wont stop coming out. Thoughts?
For model number Gss25sgmdbs
Hello Ron, thank you for your question. You may need to replace the Ice Dispenser Solenoid Service Kit PS11699580. Or, it may also be the Micro Switch PS8259956. The Micro switch is what tells your refrigerator that it is ok to dispense ice or water. We hope our suggestions help.
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS964304
Manufacturer Part Number: WR17X11653
Manufacturer Part Number: WR17X11653
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
36358072893
Refrigerator
- Kenmore Refrigerator Model 363.58072893 (36358072893, 363 58072893) Parts