36358072894 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$23.79
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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
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Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$17.70
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Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
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Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Plastic Tubing - 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR17X2891
$47.57
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Plastic Tubing - 5/16 Inch
Part #WR17X2891
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you may have a damaged water line. When you replace the water line, you may want to pick up a new water tube union as well. You can use a utility knife to cut the old water line where it is damaged, and use the union to attach the new water line to the old one. This tubing is sold individually and is an OEM part.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$267.74
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Ice Maker
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Part #WR30X10093
This ice maker assembly is used to make ice in your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold into the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the limit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. This kit includes the fill cup, 4-pin wire harness adapter, and a tube. Disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X240
$104.10
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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
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Part #WR72X240
This replacement drawer slide rail is for the right-hand side of your refrigerator. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to complete this repair.
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper – Part Number: WR17X11653
$29.12
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Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
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Part #WR17X11653
This ice dispenser door flap, also known as a damper door, is designed to seal the ice chute in compatible refrigerator models, preventing warm air from entering the freezer compartment. Constructed from durable plastic and rubber materials, it opens when the dispenser lever is pressed to release ice, then closes to maintain internal temperature and prevent frost buildup. A faulty flap can lead to condensation, frost accumulation, leaking, or ice dispensing issues. This genuine OEM replacement is compatible with select models from GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore, and restores proper sealing and dispenser function. Installation typically involves accessing the dispenser housing and securing the flap in place.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X239
$122.90
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Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
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Part #WR72X239
When looking inside the fridge, this white drawer slide rail is located on the left side of the refrigerator. This part includes the rail only.
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly – Part Number: WR51X10055
$135.00
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Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
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Part #WR51X10055
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
$85.95
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Defrost Timer
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Part #WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X242
$94.12
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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
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Part #WR72X242
If your fridge drawer isn’t sliding like it used to, this right-side slide rail could be the fix. It helps the drawer glide smoothly and stay steady when you open or close it. Easy to install, just remove the drawer, swap out the old rail, and slide the new one into place. It’s a simple way to get your fridge working like new again.
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
$23.24
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Light Socket
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Part #WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty socket. It is important to determine if the light bulb is simply burned out, or if the socket is causing the issue. Be sure to disconnect your refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. This socket is black in color and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Dispenser Control Board - 2 Slide Switches – Part Number: WR55X129
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Dispenser Control Board - 2 Slide Switches
Part #WR55X129
It is used with those refrigerators that have an ice and water dispenser in the door.

Common Symptoms of the 36358072894

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Freezer was still simi-cold but refrigerator was not.
448 of 491 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from West Alton, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Called a friend that lead me down the right path so i did a search for the part's and found this site. The trouble shooting that outher's had done was the same as mine, I descovered that the coil's in the freezer had frozen up complety. They are located behind a plasic cover in the freezer area, it had frozen up due to the Defrost heater element being defective, when i took it out it was black and burnt looking,It is located at the bottom edge of the coils,2 bolt's and a plug in on each side. That is probally the only part i needed but i went ahead and replaced the sensor and timer also.The sensor wires in the freezer( located on the very top of the coils) had to be cut and the new ones spliced in, only 2 wires and easy access. I also put shrink wrap on the splices to protect them from mosisture. The timer was located in the fridge area by the temp. control knobs. 2 small bolts and a plug in was all on it. It's been 5 day's and so far so good. The worst part was defrosting the frozen coils. This was done with the wife's hair dryer and a couple towel's to soak up the water. Don't just let the water go down the drain hole because the tray that catches it will not hold all the water from the frozen coil's. Just a reminder, don't forget to unplug the unit when working on it. Hope this help's and was very easy install, Cost about $125 in part's and a couple hours of labor(did a good cleaning while it was eampty for the repair) Good luck.
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Refrigerator temp was warm
126 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adrian from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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Internal water lines brittle, cracked, leaking
119 of 139 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marty from West Bloomfield, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.
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