Part Location Diagram of 215846602 Frigidaire Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
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Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
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Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V

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★★★★★
18 Reviews
$49.11
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PartSelect Number PS423801
Manufacturer Part Number 215846602
Manufactured by Frigidaire
Product Description

Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V Specifications

This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
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Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V

Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Will Not Start
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Frigidaire, Kenmore, Gibson, Kelvinator.
Part# 215846602 replaces these:
AP2111929, 12762, 215846602, 00624728, 00626234, 00628510, 00628518, 0628510, 08000559, 08006054, 08006992, 08016919, 08950148, 215267800, 215846605, 215846606, 240371001, 241621501, 3001671, 3001701 ... Show more , 3015909, 3203657, 4013391050, 5300187484, 5300628518, 5301090474, 5303203657, 5303211155, 5303211680, 5303270622, 5303275811, 5303321133, 5303321915, 5304457327, 5308006054, 5308006992, 624728, 626234, 628510, 628518, 8000559, 8006054, 8016919, 8950148, C000062797, C62797, D007004112, DG187005, F000111695, G000187484, G172706, G174820, G186580, G187005, G187484, M1090167, M1090474, N8000559, R000900241, R000900764, R900241 Show less
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 68 reviews. What's this?
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Stephen from Warrington, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
338 of 402 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer would not defrost
My freezer would freeze up and not allow cold air to refrigerator side. First I took off bottom face plate, located the timer on left side bottom, removed the two screws and unpluged the timer. Replaced the timer with new one. Second I removed all food from freezer. Took of back of freezer wall with nut driver. Located the thermostat which was very easy to remove. Just one clip holding thermostat. Unplugged the two wires from the old thermostat and plugged in new wires. Thanks to Partselect.com, the parts were an exact match. Very easy to do. Saved my tons of money. Freezer and refer works like new.
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Roger from Orangevale, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
185 of 208 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fridge evaporator frozen not cooling
First i killed the power and water supply to fridge. Then i removed all the racks in freezer and the 1/4" screws for rack supports with nut driver. Next i removed the evaporator cover 1/4" screws to gain access. Then i removed the the 1/4" screw that holds the evaporator at the bottom and moved the evaporator outward to remove the heater element. Then i installed new heater element from the bottom of the evaporator making sure it was in the center of the evap coils.
Next i replaced the defrost thermostat cutting the old wires. Then stripped and crimpped the new thermostat in place making sure of the same installed postion as removed.
Next i replaced the defrost timer located at the bottom left using philips head screw driver.
Next i replaced the water filter by turning it counterclockwise to remove.
Then restored power and water supply. Next i tested the heater element by turning the dial on the defrost timer clockwise until it clicked and watched the element glow.
Then waited for the deforst thermostat to shut off the heater. Finally i checked the evaporator drain iin the back of fridge for blockage and cleaned out completely.
Repairs successful fridge good as new.
Other Parts Used:
Water Filter Defrost Thermostat Defrost Heater
  • Juan from Riverside, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
118 of 139 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer coil frosting up solid. Refrigerator warming
First - I asked a person familiar in ref/freezer repair for assistance. This was the hardest issue - trying to find someone to offer "free" advise. He stated that when this problem occurs it is usually one of two things: 1) The defrost timer (underneath Refrigerator - Attached w/2 screws and plug-n connector) not functioning or 2) The defrost sensor (clipped-on to the coolant line (2-press-on wires) above the main coolant coil in in rear of freezer section behind panel secured w/5 1/4" hex-head screws) not properly sensing need for defrosting. The Tech. also stated that the defrost/heat coil, which surrounds the large coolant coil in the back of the freezer hardly ever goes bad unless it is the glass/clear type coil which often crack. (Mine was the black filament type element like found in an electric oven). I check the element with an ohm meter - 27 ohms of resistance which indicated it was okay). I replaced both defrost timer & defrost sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Parts ordered were an exact match to originals (dispite model number changes/upgrades) and everything went very well. NOTE: It is good to have the part numbers off of each original item and know what they are called before placing your order. All fixed for less than $50.00. A service call alone would be more than this. Took about 2 hours to do, due to having to defost the iced-up freezer coil w/a hair blower. Don't use sharp objects to chip away ice, let the blower do the work - Patience and a couple of towels to absorb water is important here. Hope this helps the other do-it-yourselfers.
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Michael from Newark, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
105 of 117 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer cold, not defrosting, refrigerator not cold
This was extremely easy. Took off the control box (housing that covers the light bulb, has the temp control dial on it) and easily replaced the defrost timer. Then, emptied freezer, took off cover at the back of the freezer. Disconnected old defrost thermostat, attached new one, reattached back cover, melted accumulated ice, put stuff back in. Started up. Been running great ever since. No more ice accumulation in freezer. Temp stays constant. Great service from PartSelect, saved lots of money. This job is easy on this fridge, go for it!
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Mark from Tallahassee, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
83 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer cold. Fridge too warm.
Ice build up to back of freezer. Fridge way too warm for preserving food/drinks. Unplugged fridge and de-thaw freezer with a hair dryer. Removed and replaced defrost timer in the fridge area which simply unscrews and plugs in. The video supplied by PartSelect worked well for this.

The Defrost Thermostat required a bit more work as it is accessed through the freezer compartment. I had to remove two screws to get the back cover that houses the fan removed. Then you cut the wires from the old Thermostat and remove it before splicing in the new Defrost Thermostat using the supplied crimps and matching the wire colors. It is useful to have a good wire stripper/crimper ready to make the job simple (I bought a pro one for $28 at Home Depot but they can be found cheaper). Also, there is a bit of heat shrink material included to protect the wires from moisture so a heat-gun will do the trick or Good quality electricians tape will also cut it.

I then sparked it up and it works as new. :)
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Marc from Sumas, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
53 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
Other Parts Used:
  • Tad from Lancaster, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
46 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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refrigerator run won;t shut off
verifed temp cntrol by putting element in ice bath removed box and replaced both time and control
Other Parts Used:
Temperature Control Thermostat
  • Ronald from Bridgeport, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
40 of 61 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer working but refrigerator not getting cold
THERMOSTAT--First I removed the fours crews that hold the back of freezer (inside freezer) in place. I then pulled the thermostat out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plugged in the new one and put back in place. Replaced freezer back and installed the four screws that holds it in.(iIf your freezer has a ice maker just loosen the 2 screws that hold it and lift the ice maker up off the screws
DEFROST TIMER--- removed one screw inside fridge by light bulb that holds in the timer and setting knob, then took out the two screws that held in the timer unplugged the old timer and replaced with the new one put back in the two screws that holds the timer in then replaced the one screw that holds the unit in place
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Raymond T from New York, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
38 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator wouldn't defrost
First, I replaced the defrost timer, really easy, 4 screws popped the cover of the electronic area (top of refrigerator compartment) took it out and plugged in the new time. Unit still would not defrost, so replaced the thermostat as well. Bit harder, removed ice maker, 2 screws, back plate from freezer, 4 screws. Thermostat was clamped to a copper tube- the original had one of the wires hanging out of it- cut the wires and crimped the new wires on, shrunk the plastic tube with blow dryer over the wires (taped them for good measure) and so far so good. Learned most of this through these tips, so keep reading if this isn't your problem, just save myself $1000 on a new refrifgerator...
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Thermostat
  • Patrick from Gansevoort, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Terri
September 10, 2017
First, the fridge was warm and the freezer was working and was iced in the back. I unplugged it and let it defrost. I took the back off the inside of the freezer to visually check the defrost thermostat. It looked ok. I put the back on again and plugged it in. The light came on in the fridge, but the refrigerator did not start running. Does this mean it is done for and I need a new fridge?
For model number FRT21IL4FW8
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Hi Terri, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Defrost Timer. Defrost timers are part of the defrost circuit in your refrigerator and freezer. This timer cycles the defrost heater on and off. For every eight hours, the appliance timer will cycle for 30 minutes. The defrost heater is what melts the frost buildup on the evaporator coils, and it can prevent your freezer from frosting up. If your timer fails, the heater will not get the energy it needs to run, and frost will continue to build up and can cause the temperature in the fridge to rise. Hope this helps!

58 people found this helpful.

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Harry
August 13, 2017
Had freezer worked on does the defrost timer need to be set a certain way?
PartSelect logo
Hello Harry, that is a great question. No, the defrost timer does not need to be set, once it's installed just turn the power back on and it should be good to go. Hope this helps!

30 people found this helpful.

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Terri
September 7, 2017
Is there some way to know it is the defrost timer that is bad? I'd hate to buy the part and find out that doesn't fix the problem...fridge not cold enough, I cleaned the back coils and fan and now it also runs constantly.
For model number FRT21IL4FW8
PartSelect logo
Hi Terri, Thank you for the question. You can test the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater with a multi-meter. If they are in working order it is likely that the defrost timer is the faulty. It is also a good idea to check the door gasket. When the room is dark, you can put a flash light into the fridge and close the door and see if there is light coming through anywhere around the gasket. Hope this helps!

29 people found this helpful.

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Greg
August 24, 2017
Where is the defrost timer located on this side by side model, I can't seem to find it anywhere. Seems to be well hidden?
For model number FRS22ZRGD1
PartSelect logo
Hi Greg, Thank you for the question. The defrost timer on your model number is located down at the bottom of the appliance. You may need to open the door and remove the kick plate grill. Down in the bottom corner on the left side there will be a cover you can remove to expose the timer. Hope this helps!

20 people found this helpful.

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Michael
August 22, 2017
My refrigerator-freezer is over 20 years old. For the last several days, i have noticed that some water comes out from the screws on the left side of the freezer particularly when i open the freezer widely. Since i cannot find the copy of the manual for this refrigerator-freezer (14.2 cubic feet). Also, i have noticed that the freezer does not run as often as before and appears to be a bit warm. Please inform me as to what the problem may be or should i start thinking about buying another refrigerator-freezer. Thanks for your help. Michael
For model number White-Westinghouse Ref.-Freezer Model RT 156H
PartSelect logo
Hello Michael, thank you for contacting us. The fridge components may just need a good cleaning. The coils at the back of the fridge by the compressor and condenser fan should be clean of all dust or debris. You can also remove the panel in the freezer to make sure the coils in there are not iced up, while you have that off you can make sure the evaporator fan is working properly, as that is what circulates the cool air into the fridge. It could also be as you mentioned, the defrost timer or the thermostat. The thermostat can be tested with a multi-meter. Hope this helps!

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Sam
August 26, 2017
Purchased a new defrost timer online pn 215846602 ,,, i can not find where the timer is located... removed the outer cover in the center & rear of freezer, not there searched google for hours to no avail...
For model number Frigidaire FPDA-14TK
PartSelect logo
Hello Sam, thank you for contacting us. We have a how to video on our youtube channel that will show you how to access and replace that timer. You can click on the link below, hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKYvssvclvA

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Frank
November 10, 2017
Contents of freezer are thawed, refrigerator is not cool. Refrigerator running. Any idea what's wrong?
For model number FRT18DRHD1
PartSelect logo
Hi Frank, Thank you for your question. There could be a couple of parts causing your issue but because warmth is happening in both your fridge and freezer sections, I would suggest testing your defrost timer, your defrost thermostat, your run capacitor, and your start relay as well. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Matt
January 8, 2018
I replaced the defrost timer and the thermostat. Plug it in and the refrigerator came on and was running. I turn the temperature up in the bottom part and it cut off. What’s wrong with it now?
For model number FRT18L4JB3
PartSelect logo
Hi Matt, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Run Capacitor, PartSelect Number PS2333670.When testing your capacitor set your meter to 1000 ohms. If your meter stays on 0 then your capacitor needs to be replaced.Hope this helps!

8 people found this helpful.

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Chris
October 24, 2017
Hi, on this particular fridge I have replaced the temperature control and the defrost timer, but it is still running all the time and freezing the stuff in the fridge. I had it checked out 2 months ago for the coolant and the repair guy said everything was fine. Not sure what to do next?
For model number FRT21NNGB0
PartSelect logo
Hi Chris, Thank you for the question. If the appliance runs to long I suggest replacing the Run Capacitor,PartSelect Number PS2333670.The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. Hope this helps!

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Jesse
March 3, 2018
When I turn the freezer control on, the power turns off. What causes the power to turn off in the fridge?
For model number Frs26zph
PartSelect logo
Hello Jesse, Thanks for your question. This type of issue could arise from a few different sources. You will want to test the defrost thermostat and the temperature control thermostat with a multimeter for electrical continuity. Replace them if they do not show continuity. I hope this helps.

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS423801
Manufacturer Part Number: 215846602
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